paige_soap, Author at Oakhill Vets

Pet obesity – a national epidemic

Pet obesity came to people’s attention about a decade ago, and statistics undeniably show that obesity is on the rise. It has reached epidemic status in the UK!

As veterinarians we are urging pet owners to take excessive weight gain and obesity in pets seriously. We believe obesity is a serious welfare issue in pets because it shortens their life and makes them more likely to develop disease, particularly weight-related disorders. It can cause suffering and can be extremely disabling, affecting your pet’s ability to do their normal activities, like exercise.

Health problems caused by pet obesity

Pet obesity can cause serious health problems, and make existing problems worse, which can reduce the length and quality of your pet’s life. It puts them at greater risk of conditions such as:

Diabetes
Heart disease
Respiratory issues (breathing problems)
High blood pressure (hypertension)
Cancers
Osteoarthritis and a faster degeneration of affected joints
Urinary bladder stones

On the other hand, obesity may be an indicator of disease, such as hypothyroidism (an underactive thyroid gland) or Cushing’s disease (overactive adrenal glands).

Is your pet at risk of obesity?

Several factors can make obesity more likely in your pet. For example, in dogs:

Breed – certain breeds have a higher risk.
Age – the risk increases with age.
Neuter status – neutered animals are more likely to gain weight if their diet is not managed carefully.
Sex – apart from older dogs, obesity is reported to be more common in females.
Obese owner – may lead to having an obese dog as it may be exercised less, or less able to recognise obesity.

Other animals have similar risk factors for obesity.

Does your pet need to lose weight?

Obesity is when your pet has too much body fat and it has a negative impact on their health, welfare and quality of life. Extra body weight and extra body fat tend to go hand in hand, so most overweight dogs will have excess body fat.

Body weight is easy to measure when assessing if your pet is overweight or obese – easier than trying to measure body fat. Using body weight as a guide, pets are considered to be overweight when they weigh 10-20% above their ideal body weight. They are considered obese when they weigh 20% or more above their ideal body weight.

It can be difficult to recognise if your pet is overweight, particularly if it happens slowly or if they have always been overweight. As a pet owner it’s important to understand that weight gained slowly is just as deadly as weight gained rapidly! By recognising weight gain early, your chances of preventing weight-related diseases and severe obesity are greatly improved.

Of course, the best way to check is to take them to the vet and get them properly weighed. However, there are some home methods you can try first, to judge if a trip to the vet is necessary.

Here are some signs to look out for in both cats and dogs:

Ribs – Overweight pets have a layer of fat covering their ribs, which makes them difficult to see or even feel.
Spine – A ‘fat pad’ will cover their back.
Tummy – Your pet’s tummy will bulge out and sag downwards, which may wobble or sway when they move
Face, legs and neck – Obese cats and dogs can get fat pads in these areas.

If your pet doesn’t pass these checks, or if you’re in any doubt, consult your vet. They’ll be able to give your dog a health check and will recommend a weight reduction programme if they think it’s necessary.

In contrast, underweight cats and dogs will have highly visible ribs, hipbones, and backbone. There will be a complete absence of fat around these areas, with an exaggerated waistline and non-existent tummy.

Tips for weight loss and preventing pet obesity

Once you have identified that your dog is overweight or obese, it is important to act to help them to lose weight.

The best approach to weight loss is one that promotes fat loss while preserving lean muscle mass. When pets properly lose fat and gain muscle, pet owners often report an increase in activity levels, enthusiasm and playfulness.

Here are our tips on how you can help your pet in the quest to attain a healthy weight in five easy steps:

1. Food and portion control
Use a specific nutritional product designed for healthy and safe weight loss i.e. one that has lower overall calorie density yet maintains an appropriate nutrient balance. And make sure that you are feeding them the right amount…

Every complete pet food in the UK must have feeding guidelines, but these are based on an assumed activity level, typically above the level of exercise the average cat or dog gets. Plus pets need different amounts of food during their life stage and different breed sizes have different needs, so you need to adjust the recommended feeding amount for your specific pet. When changing their food, portion or feeding pattern, closely monitoring any weight changes over the first few weeks and adjust feeding accordingly.

2.Exercise
There are so many benefits of regular exercise for your pets. Not only will exercise help your pet shed extra pounds, but it will also strengthen respiratory and circulation systems, and aid digestion. The key is to get your pet moving each day, ideally for a minimum of 30 mins (if your pet is able). For some pets e.g. brachycephalic (short nosed) breeds or older pets you will need to tailored exercise to what they are capable of and build up to longer walks slowly. Using an activity tracker can help you to know exactly how much you are both doing!

Cats don’t tend to go on long walks the same way dogs will, making increasing exercise a bit trickier. Try playing interactive games with your cat, with a feather or toy mouse for instance, and feed them on elevated surfaces and in different locations around your home. Keeping these play sessions regular can help to bond with your kitty, whilst keeping them entertained and trim. You could also consider remote-controlled toys and self-directed interactive toys that use technology to engage your pet’s play drive.

3.Treats
Snacks and treats should make up no more than 10% of your dog’s daily calorie intake. Many pet owners feed the proper amount of food but sabotage their efforts by adding one or two snacks throughout the day. As few as 30 extra calories per day means your pet could gain over three pounds in a year. Fresh or frozen green beans, broccoli, and cauliflower all make excellent snacks if approved by your vet. Whatever treats you give, be sure to count those additional calories.

When it comes down to it, most dogs would prefer extra attention to more treats. Spending more time with your pooch will give you both more satisfaction than a treat which is inhaled in an instant and quickly forgotten. But if you do want to reward good behaviour with a treat then break it into smaller pieces and offer them whenever your pet earns it. After all dogs don’t do division!

4. Regular weigh-ins
Monthly weigh-ins are an important component of successful weight loss, and it keeps everyone accountable. It is important to verify weight loss, to ensure that weight loss is neither too rapid nor excessive, and to determine when enough weight has been lost.

5. Look for diseases and get them treated
Although most of the weight gain in cats and dogs is caused by over-feeding and not enough exercise, there are some medical conditions that can contribute to obesity in pets. Fortunately, most of these diseases and illnesses can be treated by a vet, so it’s important to keep an eye on your pet for any changes.

An unexplained increase or decrease in appetite or weight could be a sign of something more sinister. So, be sure to get them checked out by your vet to be on the safe side.

Whatever your weight loss approach, keep in mind the goal is to improve health and prolong life, not just skinny pets. Weight loss done correctly can improve quality of life and extend longevity in pets.

What happens when you reach your weight loss goal?

Weight loss isn’t a single battle; it’s a lifelong war. Once an ideal body weight and condition has been achieved, it is important to maintain that weight. Yo-yo weight loss and gain is no healthier for pets than for humans. The goal is to change your lifestyle so that an active, healthy lifestyle becomes normal.

Follow-up care with your vet is essential for sustained success. Your vet team can help you find an appropriate food and portion for weight maintenance. We recommend tracking your pet’s weight every one to three months to make sure they stay inside the healthy range.

Christmas food toxic to pets

Christmas Food Toxic to Pets

For us humans, Christmas is a time of over indulgence but some of our favourite Christmas foods can be dangerous to our pets.

Grapes/Raisins, Currants and Sultanas
The toxic mechanism of these fruits in animals is not known, but they can cause kidney failure in dogs and possibly cats.

Some dogs can eat large quantities without any effects and others will develop renal failure with as few as a handful.

The initial signs are usually vomiting and diarrhoea, which then progress to renal failure in 24-72 hours. Again, no specific antidote exists, thus the treatment is supportive, with IV fluids to attempt to protect the kidneys.

At this time of year, things like Christmas cake, Christmas pudding and mince pies, which are full or dried fruit are in abundance, so please store them out of pets reach!

Nuts
Peanuts have been reported to have adverse effects in some pets. Some reported symptoms included, vomiting/diarrhoea, twitching, spasm, agitation and convulsions. Macadamia nuts are also toxic to dogs and can cause weakness, tremors, vomiting, depression, lameness and stiffness.

Allium species
These foods include onions, garlic, leeks, shallots and chives. They can be toxic raw or cooked. Initially vomiting and diarrhoea is seen. This is followed by a serious condition called haemolytic anaemia (destruction of red blood cells) from 1-5 days later. Many foods can contain these ingredients unknowingly, so avoiding giving any table scraps is recommended.

Chocolate
The toxic component of chocolate is called theobromine (a compound similar to caffeine). The amount of theobromine varies in different types of chocolates.

The content in white chocolate is fairly low, milk chocolate has a moderate amount and the content in dark/pure chocolate or cocoa powder is relatively high. Thus, the toxicity of chocolate depends on what type, how much is ingested and the size of your dog.

The most common clinical symptom of chocolate poisoning in dogs is vomiting and diarrhoea. This along with the fact that theobromine is a diuretic puts dogs at risk of dehydration. Other effects that can occur are hyperactivity, increased body temperature, increased blood pressure and increased heart rate. Tremors and convulsions can also be observed in extreme cases. There is no specific antidote for chocolate poisoning and the treatment is supportive and symptomatic.

If your dog has eaten any type of chocolate of any amount, seek veterinary attention as soon as possible as most of the risk can be reduced by immediately inducing vomiting to remove the toxin and administering an oral substance to reduce further absorption of any chocolate still in the gastrointestinal tract.

Bones
Eating chicken, turkey or goose carcases may cause larger pieces of bone to cause an obstruction, while smaller pieces may irritate the gut, or even penetrate the stomach or intestinal wall, which may require surgery.

When preparing your Christmas day meal, ensure that any meat is kept on the kitchen surface, or out of reach of your pet. When throwing away a carcass, take it to the outside bin, therefore avoiding any temptation for your dog to raid your kitchen bin during the night.

Alcohol
All alcohol can be harmful to pets, so please keep out of pets reach. Certain alcoholic drinks may be more appealing to dogs, such as cream or egg based drinks. Dogs may develop similar effects to those expected in humans, including becoming drowsy, wobbly on their feet and in more severe cases they can develop low body temperature, low blood sugar, seizures and coma.

If you think your pet has ingested any of the above, please contact us.

Clostridial disease protection

CLOSTRIDIAL DISEASE PROTECTION

Vaccinating ewes with Heptavac P Plus 4-6 weeks pre-lambing is the best way to protect them and their lambs against the 7 most common clostridial diseases: lamb dysentery, pulpy kidney, struck, tetanus, braxy, blackleg, black disease, and clostridial metritis.

Up to 12 weeks passive immunity against clostridial disease is expected in lambs who have received sufficient colostrum from fully vaccinated ewes. The vaccine also provides 4 weeks passive immunity against pasturellosis in lambs.

It is important to ensure that the nutritional status of ewes is optimal at the time of vaccination and that they are vaccinated at the correct time with respect to lambing. They should be gathered carefully to negate the chances of metabolic disease and abortion which may be brough on by stressful handling. Care should be taken when injecting to ensure that the vaccine is delivered into clean skin using clean needles. All breeding ewes not previously vaccinated with Heptavac P should receive 2 doses of 2ml, 4-6 weeks apart, with annual boosters thereafter. Boosters are ideally given 4-6 weeks pre-lambing to boost colostral levels of immunoglobulin.

Lambs can be vaccinated from 3 weeks of age with either Heptavac P Plus or Ovivac to provide ongoing protection against clostridial disease and pasturellosis. Lambs must receive a primary course of 2 doses, 4-6 weeks apart.

Cattle lameness: White Line Disease

CATTLE LAMENESS: WHITE LINE DISEASE

White line disease is a non-infectious claw horn disease of cattle. The white line is the area of the sole of the hoof where the wall horn meets the sole horn. The horn along this junction is prone to damage, particularly from shearing (sideways) forces. Sole thinning as a result of increased wear can also cause the sole to flex more with resultant damage to the white line structure.

The feet may be subjected to shearing forces if cows have to turn tight corners, or change direction suddenly, for example if being herded forcefully or if trying to escape a bully cow.

If the white line becomes damaged it can become impacted with stones and debris. The resulting infection leads to the formation of an abscess and a sudden onset of lameness. Any cow exhibiting a sudden onset of lameness should have the affected foot lifted and examined at the earliest opportunity. The foot should be trimmed using the five-step Dutch method and the area where the white line has been damaged should be carefully explored until the abscess can drain. Anti-inflamatories should be administered and a block should be fitted to the healthy claw. Early treatment promotes faster resolution and minimises the impact the lameness will have on milk production and fertility.

Key areas to focus on to prevent white line disease include:

Optimising cow flow and ensuring cows are handled quietly. Improving cow flow will reduce pushing, twisting and turning forces on feet. Ensure backing gates are used appropriately.
Improving cow comfort to improve lying times – this includes cubicle design, lying surface, bedding provision and stocking density. Over stocking results in a greater likelihood of bullying interactions and greater competition for lying space. Cubicle buildings should provide at least 5% more cubicles than cows. Straw yards should provide 1m2 per 1,000 litres of milk, e.g. a 10,000l cow should have 10m2 lying space. The target is for cows to be lying for at least 12 hours per day.
Reduce standing times. The longer cows stand on concrete the greater the risk of white line damage, sole ulcers, and other claw horn problems. Ideally cows should not stand for more than 1 hour at milking times.
Improve flooring – repair areas of uneven concrete and use rubber matting in areas of high traffic and at tight turns such as exits from the parlour. Walking surfaces should be non-slip and as clean as possible.
Manage cow tracks and gateways – avoid stones and manage muddy areas. Consider upgrading tracks with AstroTurf and sweep regularly. Tracks should never be used by machinery.
Nutrition. Inclusion of biotin in the diet at 20mg/cow/day has been shown to reduce the incidence of WLD by as much as 50%. However, this is a long-term strategy and due to the time taken for new horn growth, improvements may take at least six months to be seen.

For more details on the five-step Dutch foot trimming method:
https://ahdb.org.uk/knowledge-library/trimming-cows-feet-the-five-step-dutch-method

The white line

The white line is located at the junction of the hoof wall and sole. This area is susceptible to damage from shearing forces. Once damaged, the area can be penetrated by stones and foreign material which may lead to the formation of an abscess. A white line lesion is when the white line has become impacted with debris following damage. The resultant abscess will cause a sudden onset lameness.

Bovine Iritis – ‘Silage eye’

BOVINE IRITIS – ‘SILAGE EYE’

Bovine iritis, also known as ‘silage eye’, appears as a bluish-white cloudiness in the eye, with a red angry rim at the junction of the sclera and cornea (where the white and black parts of the eye meet). Silage eye is extremely painful as demonstrated by excessive tearing and closing of the eyelids.

Treatment includes subconjunctival injection of antibiotic and steroid. Topical cloxacillin (Orbenin Ophthalmic ointment) can also be used in early cases.

The causal agent is the bacteria Listeria monocytogenes, which is widespread in the environment. Silage eye is most commonly associated with feeding big bale silage. Listeria are more likely to grow in big bales compared to clamp silage due to their lower density and higher DM content, which results in a slower rate of fermentation. Bales also have a high surface area to volume ratio, so more of the silage will be exposed to air if the wrap becomes damaged. Listeria thrive in the presence of air, even if the pH is low.

Affected silage may not always be visibly mouldy. The risk of Listeria surviving in big bale silage can be reduced by ensuring that air is excluded for the duration of storage and feeding big bales immediately upon opening.

Calf pneumonia – knowing your enemy and successfully fighting it!

Early diagnosis is key

The single most important factor affecting the success of calf pneumonia treatment is how early treatment is started. Treatment must be given as early as possible to minimise the degree of lung damage and reduce the risk of chronic pneumonia.

Detecting respiratory disease in the early stages requires careful observation. Calves may have a high temperature for up to 72hrs before they exhibit obvious clinical signs, such as an increased respiratory rate. Subtle signs to look out for include a slight delay in getting up to feed, a reduction in milk/feed intake, separation from the rest of the group, a clear nasal discharge, or a slightly depressed state.

Time to get the thermometer out

Any suspicion of a calf not being 100% should prompt a temperature check. Allocate some time daily to observe calf behaviour so that these subtle changes can be recognised.

If there has been a couple of cases of pneumonia in a group of calves, it is very wise to temperature check the whole group. It is impossible to tell which calf has a high temperature and who hasn’t without getting your thermometer out! Could you pick out someone who had a temperature increase of 0.1°C in a line of people without a thermometer?

Identifying the pathogen

Calf pneumonia can be caused by a range of pathogens including bacteria, viruses, and parasites. With regards to diagnostics there are two main options:

Isolate the pathogen – nasopharyngeal swabs, transtracheal washes, post-mortem sampling, faecal sample (lungworm)
Check if the animal has had an immune response against the pathogen – blood samples to check for exposure to pathogens

It is important to know what pathogens are causing pneumonia on your farm so that specific vaccinations can be selected, effective treatments can be utilised, and targeted management protocols can be put in place to prevent disease.

Dealing with an outbreak

Ideally sick calves should be isolated either on their own or as a group in a separate airspace away from healthy calves. Having a designated hospital pen will help to reduce the spread of disease to healthy calves. This allows for close monitoring of feed and water intake and assessment of response to treatment.

Although many causes of pneumonia are viral, secondary bacterial infection is almost inevitable and therefore all cases of pneumonia should be treated with antibiotics in combination with anti-inflammatories.

Anti-inflammatory will bring down high temperatures, reduce the degree of lung damage and inflammation and help feed intakes. The antibiotic that you choose may depend on which pathogens have been diagnosed on your farm, administration requirements and the duration of action.

Please get in touch if you would like to discuss your current pneumonia treatment protocols with us.

Bovine respiratory disease

Early diagnosis is key

Time to get the thermometer out

Any suspicion of a calf not being 100% should prompt a temperature check. Allocate some time daily to observe calf behaviour so that these subtle changes can be recognised.

Identifying the pathogen

Calf pneumonia can be caused by a range of pathogens including bacteria, viruses, and parasites. With regards to diagnostics there are two main options:

Isolate the pathogen – nasopharyngeal swabs, transtracheal washes, post-mortem sampling, faecal sample (lungworm)
Check if the animal has had an immune response against the pathogen – blood samples to check for exposure to pathogens

Dealing with an outbreak

Please get in touch if you would like to discuss your current pneumonia treatment protocols with us.

Controlling lameness for a more productive flock

It is estimated that the UK flock contains over 3 million lame sheep. Staggeringly over 60% of the total amount of antibiotic used in flocks is used to treat lameness. Footrot and Contagious Ovine Digital Dermatitis (CODD) are two important highly infectious causes of lameness. Each flock should have a control strategy in place with the aim of reducing the number of new cases to improve flock welfare and efficiency. Control plans should centre on improving under-foot hygiene, culling chronic cases, improving biosecurity, ensuring prompt treatment, and using the footrot vaccine.

Footrot is the most common cause of lameness in sheep. Damaged interdigital skin, poor claw hygiene, and moist environmental conditions promote the spread and development of infection. Chronic cases can lead to overgrown and permanently misshapen hooves. Treatment has the best results when initiated early. Affected sheep should be isolated from the rest of the flock and treated with long-acting amoxicillin and Metacam.

CODD is caused by spirochaete bacteria (same family as digital dermatitis in cattle). CODD lesions start at the coronary band and progress down the hoof wall towards the toe. The hoof capsule eventually comes away to expose the sensitive underlying tissues. Affected sheep should be isolated and treated promptly.

Purchased sheep should be quarantined and have their feet examined carefully as around 30% of infected sheep show no signs of lameness. A randomised controlled trial found that a single dose of long-acting amoxicillin resulted in a 71% cure rate. Some cases may require a second treatment 3 days later. Tulathromycin (Draxxin) and tilmicosin (Micotil – vet-only) may be used in refractory cases.

Footrot bacteria have been isolated in 71% of CODD lesions and sheep with footrot are 3.8 times more likely to develop CODD. Therefore, controlling footrot is an important aspect of controlling CODD. In addition to significantly reducing the impact of footrot, the Footvax vaccine was found to reduce the number of CODD cases by 32%. Annual Footvax vaccination may provide sufficient control in most flocks. An additional booster may be given 4 weeks prior to risk periods (e.g. housing for lambing). The vaccine can also be used in the face of an outbreak.

Symptoms of eye disease to look out for

What are the symptoms of eye disease you should look out for?

We know that eye health is important but how often do you take your pet’s eye health into account?
Eye problems are often painful and, if left untreated, may result in sight loss. That’s why understanding the symptoms and getting a vet appointment early is essential.

Any changes in your pet’s eyes or if one eye suddenly looks different from the other could indicate a problem. Read about some specific symptoms of eye disease below.

Redness

A red eye is most commonly due to inflammation. Inflammation can occur anywhere in or around the eye. There may also be discharge, irritation and swelling present. Conjunctivitis is a common cause of a red eye in dogs and cats and can be secondary to a number of causes such as allergies, foreign bodies, tear film disorders or pathogens. Your vet will treat your pet accordingly depending on the underlying cause.

Redness may less commonly be due to engorged blood vessels (e.g. in glaucoma) or haemorrhage within the eye, either of which can be damaging to vision.

Irritation

Eyes are very sensitive due to their dense network of nerve endings. Irritation is common and is usually an indicator of a painful or itchy eye.

Pain – This can manifest as pawing or rubbing at the eye, squinting or increased blink rate, excessive tearing, sensitivity to light and vocalisation. Corneal ulceration (damage to the window-like structure at the front of the eyeball) is a common cause of acute pain and needs to be addressed promptly to avoid further deterioration. Other causes of acute eye pain may be trauma or foreign bodies. Some conditions, such as glaucoma, can cause dull/throbbing pain due to build up of pressure inside the eyeball. Your pet may not show the above symptoms and may just be more quiet and off food (similar to how you would feel with a dull headache or migraine!)

Itchiness – Pets will often paw and rub their eye if itchy. Itchy eyes may be due to allergies, infections or skin conditions and they may also show other symptoms such as redness or discharge.

Discharge

Discharge can range from watery to sticky/ thick and be a variety of colours (clear, yellow/green/brown or bloody). Normal healthy eyes should be clear and bright so if you notice any discharge you should consult your vet.

Once discharge dries it can become crusty and adhere to the eyelids which is uncomfortable for your pet and may become a site for bacterial multiplication.

Dull/ cloudy/ change in colour

Dull – A healthy pet has bright and shiny eyes. If your pet has dull looking eyes it could be a sign of by dry eye (AKA Kerato-Conjunctivitis Sicca or KCS), most commonly caused when the immune system attacks the tear gland tissue leading to gradual tear volume depletion and an unhealthy cornea. Tear gland loss can become total and permanent if left unchecked but can be saved in most cases if identified and treated early. Further information can be found here.

Cloudy – Cloudy looking eyes can be due to fluid or cellular infiltrate into the cornea or issues with the lens (e.g. cataracts)- any eye with a cloudy appearance should be checked immediately.

Change in colour – Speak to your vet if there is any change in colour of any part of the eye(s).

Tear staining

Tear stains are those reddish-brown marks that can appear on the fur around your pet’s eyes. These stains can be unsightly and noticeable, especially on pale fur. In most cases tear staining occurs when tears don’t drain properly and find their way onto the face. For these patients, tear staining is largely a cosmetic problem which can be solved with regular cleaning. Ocryl is a gentle eye cleansing solution designed specifically for pets which is also proven to combat stubborn tear stains! Further information can be found here.

Some patients with tears stains may have underlying eye problems which mean they overproduce tears due to ocular irritation. These tears can then spill over onto the face resulting in tear staining so it’s important that a vet checks your pet if they have tear stains to address anything treatable.

Asymmetry

Both eyes should look the same so a sudden or gradual change in appearance between eyes can indicate a problem. Look out for differences in shape, size, colour or pupil size. There will be the odd exception where a difference is normal to that individual- for instance some breeds of dog, such as Collies, may naturally have different coloured irises (called ‘Wall Eye’).

If both eyes are asymmetrical in appearance have a vet check them out to be on the safe side.

Loss of or declining vision

Loss of vision can be sudden or gradual depending on the cause and, despite how close we are to our pets, it can sometimes go unnoticed as their other senses (such as smell and hearing) are much more heightened than ours. A blind pet often learns to compensate by using these other senses and many will continue to lead a happy life.

A common symptom of vision loss might be your pet bumping into things, often initially in dim light where vision loss is gradual. Pets learn to navigate their familiar environments instinctively so setting them a little obstacle course and calling them towards you can help you identify if their vision is poor. Another symptom of vision loss to watch out for is your pet becoming more clingy with you as they use you for comfort and guidance.

Remember – it is important to be vigilant regarding our pet’s eye health as the earlier a problem is identified the more likely it can be successfully treated. Check your pets’ eyes daily so you know what is normal for him/her and to get them used to having their eyes examined.

Eye problems can also be a symptom of underlying medical conditions, so the quicker you can see your vet, the better.

Preparing your pet for firework’s season

Fireworks are a common phobia for pets as they often find the loud, unpredictable noise and bright displays of light very frightening. Even a seemingly confident pet can tremble and drool at the unfamiliar sounds.

Preparation is key

Preparation is all-important if dogs are to get through fireworks with the minimum amount of fear and stress. First you need to make a special place where your dog can get away from the sounds he fears. Most dogs will already have a favourite room to go to, in which case all you need to do is modify this place to make it even more suitable as a bolt hole.

Some dogs do not know where to escape and for these individuals, you need to create somewhere for them to hide. It is best to choose a room that is naturally quiet and has minimal numbers of windows. It is best to prepare the refuge as far ahead of the firework event as you can. Your dog must always be able to get to this place whenever he is frightened.

IN ADVANCE

Install a Dog Appeasing Pheromone (ADAPTIL) diffuser in your home, preferably close to or inside the dogs hiding place. This is a device that looks like an air freshener that you plug into a wall socket. It produces a smell that is like a chemical that your dog’s mother used to calm her puppies. It should be left operating 24hrs a day and if possible installed a couple of weeks before a known event. ADAPTIL makes dogs feel much more relaxed and confident when they might otherwise be stressed.
Put in lots of blankets for your dog to dig and burrow in, preferably placed in a corner where the dog has already tended to dig or hide. Include an old, unwashed piece of clothing e.g. woolly jumper, so that your dog can smell your scent and feel comforted by your indirect presence.
Try to minimise the amount of noise entering the bolt hole room from outside. The dog must not see the flashes of fireworks or lightening, so close the windows and use heavy curtains to make the room dark.
Bowls of food and water are essential and it is a good idea to make sure that your dog has emptied his bladder an hour or so before the fireworks start.
Leave a few special chews and things for your dog to eat in the hiding place in case he fancies something chewy to reduce his tension. However, do not be alarmed if he does not seem interested in them – some dogs are simply not interested in treats at a time like this.
Moderately loud rhythmic music with a good beat is an effective way to mask the fireworks from outside.
Get your dog used to going to the hiding place 2/3 times each day during the run up to a firework display by taking him there and giving him some food or a favourite chew. This will help the dog understand that this is a good place to go to.
Give your dog a large, stodgy, carbohydrate-rich meal in the late afternoon of the day. Pasta, mashed potato or overcooked rice will help him feel calm and sleepy as the night draws in.
Make sure your pet is kept in a safe and secure environment at all times so that he doesn’t bolt and escape if a sudden noise occurs.
It’s a good idea to ensure that your pet is microchipped and the details are up to date just in case they do bolt and escape.
For severe fears and phobias, medication is available and you could book an appointment to see your vet.

WHEN THE NOISES START

Do not over fuss or soothe your pet to relieve their fears, as it gives them the impression that there is something to be frightened of.
Do not get cross if they are scared as it will only make them more frightened.
Ignore the noises yourself and try to appear happy and relaxed.
If your pet is only mildly fearful, you could try to engage them in some form of active game. Try to appear happy and unconcerned. It can help if you play a game with another pet in the household because the frightened one may be tempted to join in.
If your pet is very frightened by the noises and cannot be encouraged to play, then take them to the hiding place and encourage them to stay there.