Julie Nuttall, Author at Oakhill Vets

Environmental mastitis

ENVIRONMENTAL MASTITIS

Whilst the risk of environmental mastitis is present year-round, some farms see an increased incidence during periods of hot, humid weather. Warm, humid environments promote the survival and replication of mastitis-causing pathogens, particularly in bedding. Grazing herds may also experience an increase in environmental mastitis cases if grazing areas become poached or fly control is inadequate.

Environmental mastitis pathogens may be splashed onto udders in slurry or water, or transferred from contaminated bedding, hands, shared udder cloths and other equipment. Bedding, particularly if it is allowed to become damp whilst in storage or contaminated with slurry whilst in use, is a significant source of environmental pathogens.

Some pathogens have a particular affinity for certain bedding products, for example, Klebsiella lives happily in damp wood-based products, whilst Strep. uberis thrives in straw. Pseudomonas likes to live in water tanks, which is why only water direct from the mains should be used for parlour cleaning.

Rough or damaged teats can increase the likelihood of mastitis, as damaged skin is more likely to harbour bacteria and is difficult to clean and disinfect.

The severity of environmental mastitis varies from a mild elevation in SCC to full blown toxic “E. coli” mastitis with a down cow in toxic shock, and everything in between. Summer mastitis is caused by a group of bacteria found in the environment and transferred by flies. Therefore fly control is an important prevention strategy.

CONTROL STRATEGIES FOR ENVIRONMENTAL MASTITIS

Cow housing:

Good cow comfort – comfortable, adequately sized cubicles with suitable, clean, dry bedding. Lime can be used to reduce bacterial numbers in cubicle bedding.
Ensure bedding stays dry in storage.
Ensure good ventilation and drainage to help remove as much moisture as possible
Clean floors and good cow flow – prevent slurry pooling, particularly on entry and exit to the parlour/robots and other bottleneck areas. This will help to reduce slurry splashing and contamination of the legs, udder and teats with faeces.

Parlour routine

Wear gloves.
Foremilking – for prompt detection of clinical cases.
Good milking machine function – to minimise teat-end damage, chapped teats and blackspot (when damaged teat skin becomes infected). Check ACR’s, liners, vacuum and pulsate.
Pre-milking teat disinfection, which removes environmental contaminants and post-milking teat disinfection for the control of contagious mastitis.
Loafing time post-milking – promote some standing time on a clean surface for teat-dip products to dry and teat canals to start to close. Providing fresh feed at the feed barrier is one approach to this.

Dry cow management:

Clean dry, comfortable housing (or unpoached field if grazed).
Appropriate stocking density and diet.
Appropriate dry cow therapy depending on previous SCC recordings, clinical mastitis history and teat condition. Careful application of intramammary products – practise a good aseptic technique (as sterile as possible!).

Nutrition:

Optimal energy balance to promote healthy immune function.
Avoid loose faeces (SARA).
Prevent metabolic disease. Subclinical milk fever reduces the ability of the cows immune response to fight infections, including mastitis.

The incidence and cause of clinical and subclinical mastitis cases should be regularly monitored. We use the industry initiative QuarterPRO to promote and improve udder health on an individual farm basis. This includes data analysis, an on-farm assessment of potential risk factors and implementing a control plan tailored to your farm.

Speak to one of our vets on 01772 861300 for more info.

Canker

CANKER

Max presented after his owner noticed the frogs of his feet had become soft and irregular. Upon examination it was clear that he was suffering from Canker in three out of four feet.

WHAT IS CANKER AND HOW DOES IT OCCUR?

Canker is an overgrowth of abnormal frog tissue, caused by bacterial infection, resulting in an over proliferation of soft, white sensitive frog and infectious material.

It is often described as being cauliflower-like with a cottage cheese discharge. It initially affects the back of the foot but can spread to affect the solar surface of the foot as well as deeper structures.

Fortunately, this condition is rare but when cases do occur it is usually in draught breeds like Max. The overgrowth of soft and sensitive material means the affected horses often become lame and treatment needs to be performed as soon as the condition is noticed for the best prognosis.

HOW IS CANKER TREATED?

Historically, corrosive agents have been applied to the lesions to burn away the abnormal tissue. However, this is unreliable and can cause a great degree of discomfort to the horse. Debridement (surgical removal) of the tissue back to normal appearing healthy frog is the best treatment method. For mild cases this can be done under standing sedation. However, in severe cases or if multiple feet are affected, debridement is performed under general anaesthetic, as in Max’s case.

Tourniquets were used on three of his legs to reduce the blood supply to the feet, thus reducing blood loss during surgery. Rosie and Stuart cut away all abnormal frog material until normal appearing healthy frog was reached, then his feet were bandaged to keep them clean.

Post surgery, Max’s feet were maintained in antibiotic dressings whilst normal frog tissue regrew and he was kept on pain relief to ensure he was comfortable throughout. After a couple of months, a few mini tidy ups of his feet under standing sedation, and tonnes of TLC he was finally given the go ahead to return to turn out and work.

Guttural pouch mycosis

GUTTURAL POUCH MYCOSIS

Ralph recently presented due to the development of mild head shaking behaviour and an abnormal respiratory noise when ridden. He subsequently developed an orange coloured nasal discharge but was otherwise well.

DIAGNOSIS

Endoscopic examination was used to determine the origin of the discharge. In Ralph’s case we could see that the discharge was exiting from one of his guttural pouch openings at the back of his throat. The image shows the fungal plaques covering the stylohyoid bone, cranial nerves and internal carotid artery.

Once inside the guttural pouch, a large volume of pus was noted in addition to white plaques which were adherent to the pouch lining. These findings were indicative of a fungal infection called guttural pouch mycosis.

We believe that Ralph’s headshaking and abnormal respiratory noise were secondary to the fungal plaques irritating the nerves within the guttural pouch.

Fortunately, guttural pouch mycosis is rare. Sadly, the disease can prove fatal in up to 50% of cases. The poor survival rate is due to fungal plaques breaking down the lining of the pouch, resulting in fatal bleeding or damage to nerves affecting the ability to swallow and breathe. It is not fully understood why or how this infection occurs and it can affect any horse of any age. Often the first presenting sign is a small nosebleed, which is why it’s important that we investigate nosebleeds in equine patients.

TREATMENT

Surgical treatment options are available that involve tying off the blood vessels to prevent severe bleeding. However, in Ralph’s case he was managed medically at our clinic. The team treated the affected pouch with an antifungal solution, in addition to removing the fungal plaques using forceps passed through the endoscope. He was given drugs to reduce inflammation and potassium iodide in his feed to increase the penetration of the antifungal wash.

Amazingly, on Ralph’s most recent assessment all of his fungal plaques had resolved. His signs of nerve irritation have largely improved, and the disease should not return.

Double trouble

DOUBLE TROUBLE

A couple of months ago Sarah attended the lovely Sally who had a surprise in store for all of us!

Sally was at stud to foal down and was noted to be going into the early stages of labour by stud owner Liz. However, it was soon apparent that she wasn’t progressing as expected – two legs had appeared but she was struggling and seemed exceptionally painful. Liz was quickly on the phone to vet Sarah who whizzed down to the stud as fast as Ribble Valley’s police find acceptable!

AN UNEXPECTED DISCOVERY

Upon feeling inside Sally, Sarah was able to identify one foal which was presented with their head and neck twisted over. However, it seemed very much stuck, despite being not overly large. A little more feeling further back revealed something no one was expecting – an extra pair of legs also within Sally’s pelvis – narrowing the gap and wedging the foal in place. At first Sarah wasn’t sure if these were the back legs of one very badly presented single foal, but after further palpation discovered that they were actually another set of front legs. It was at this point that the cavalry (Sarah’s second on call vet Julia) was called in to lend extra assistance if required.

SPRINGING INTO ACTION

Sally was quickly sedated, given pain relief, and an epidural placed in her spine to stop uterine contractions. Once contractions had stopped and she was more comfortable, Sarah was able to push the second foal further back beyond the pelvis, leaving room for the first foal to be repositioned and delivered. This was no mean feat and required both Liz and Sarah to pull on one leg each, as well as a lot of lubricant! Despite giving everyone a scare when she went limp half way through, Babette was soon wriggling round on the floor.

Julia arrived and was quite confused as to why Sarah was still two arms deep in Sally’s uterus, despite there being a foal on the floor, when Bettina (with her exit route now completely clear) made a swift entrance into the world. Due to being quite squashed up in the womb with her big sister, Bettina’s limbs were initially much weaker than hoped, and so Julia stomach tubed her with some colostrum in case she struggled to stand.

Babette and Bettina are now two months old and are both doing really well, full of character and sass. Sally has been a fantastic mother and is doing her best to look after both foals, ably assisted by stud owners Ian and Liz, who have worked tirelessly to supplement and support these twins.

TWIN PREGNANCIES

It is incredibly rare for a mare to carry twin foals to term; usually they resorb both pregnancies or will abort both foals at 8-9 months. It is even rarer for both to be delivered safely and for the mare to accept and be able to nurse both foals.

Normally if twin foals are seen when a mare is pregnancy scanned 14-17 days after covering, one of the embryos will be ‘squeezed’ in order to maximise the other foal’s (and the mare’s) chances of survival. We were incredibly lucky in this case that not only did Sally successfully carry both foals to term, but also that she was so closely monitored during her foaling, so that we were able to attend as soon as a problem was noted. If things had been left to chance, then the outcome would have been very different, with the possibility of losing not just the foals, but also the mare.

A calcinosis circumscripta conundrum

A CALCINOSIS CIRCUMSCRIPTA CONUNDRUM

Occasionally as a vet, there are cases that exercise our brains VERY hard! This was certainly the case with Zeus, a two year old gelding.

Zeus was found severely lame on his left hind limb whilst out grazing. On initial clinical examination, no localising signs could be found to explain the lameness. Intravenous pain relief was administered to facilitate returning Zeus to his stable. After 48 hours, his owners noted that some swelling had started to develop in the region of the stifle. Zeus was examined on yard to establish his fitness to travel, before coming into clinic for further investigations.

CLINIC INVESTIGATIONS

A large swelling within the muscle belly on the outer aspect of the limb was found 10cm below the stifle joint, which was severely inflamed.

X-rays revealed the swelling in the muscle belly to be a discrete mineralised mass, consistent with the appearance of a tumour, chronic abscess or calcinosis circumscripta. Radiography of the stifle joint itself was unremarkable.

Ultrasonography confirmed severe inflammation of the joint, with some damage to the stabilising ligamentous structures on the outer aspect of the joint. Ultrasonography of the mass revealed that it incorporated the overlying long digital extensor tendon.

Synoviocentesis (removal of synovial fluid) was performed on the joint. Instead of the small amount of transparent, straw-coloured fluid expected, an abundance of cloudy, cream fluid was obtained. This fluid underwent rapid analysis at Oakhill, where it was found to have a white blood cell count highly suggestive of infection of the joint although slightly bizarrely, no bacteria could be identified.

The question was, were the two findings (the muscle mass and the stifle joint inflammation) related? What was certain was that the extremely painful, inflamed joint required arthroscopic (keyhole) flushing under general anaesthetic to give Zeus a reasonable chance of recovery. Whilst the exact nature of the mass remained uncertain, it was decided that removal was the best plan of action.

WILL SURGERY PROVIDE MORE ANSWERS?

Equine surgery specialists Guy and Rosie operated together to minimise the length of the general anaesthetic. The mass was carefully excised, along with a portion of the affected tendon. The mass was found to contain a white, grit or chalk like substance – some of which appeared to be tracking up the tendon towards the joint! The joint was accessed separately via keyhole surgery allowing the abnormal fluid to be flushed out thoroughly and the thickened joint lining to be debrided. Much to the surprise of the surgeons, the same white chalky substance found in the mass appeared to be within the joint fluid as well. Zeus recovered well from surgery with the mass removed and a much healthier stifle joint.

The mass and synovial fluid were sent to an external lab for examination by a pathology specialist. This concluded that the mass was calcinosis circumscripta – an unusual condition characterised by the formation of a discrete, fibrous, mineralised mass under the skin, the cause of which is unknown.

Fluid analysis found white blood cell levels consistent with the initial findings at the clinic, but despite such high white blood cell levels normally only being recorded with joint infection, no bacteria were observed under microscope and no bacteria could be grown. The presence of calcified debris within the fluid was also confirmed.

Calcinosis circumscripta usually remains as a single defined mass. However, in Zeus’s case material from the mass appeared to have tracked up the tendon and penetrated the joint before causing extreme aggravation of the joint surface resulting in a severe inflammatory response.

Whilst Zeus remains a phenomenon of veterinary medicine, his recovery to date is extremely promising. He is now back enjoying being a youngster in the field with his friends prior to a check-up and medication of the joint at ten weeks post surgery!

Are jellyfish stings dangerous to dogs?

On the Lancashire coastline, it’s not uncommon to see jellyfish washed up on the beach. Jellyfish are a type of boneless sea creature with a bell-like body and long tentacles. The tentacles of jellyfish have nematocysts, which are the cells that cause the stinging sensation.

You may approach them to have a closer look, but you shouldn’t touch them and neither should your dog! If you see any jellyfish you should put your dog on a lead to avoid them touching them.

Although the fur on most dogs offers a layer of protection, they can be just as vulnerable to stings on lightly furred areas such as the face, feet, and abdomen. They are also at risk for stings inside their mouths if they attempt to pick up a jellyfish with their mouths, especially as this stinging action can occur several weeks after the death of the jellyfish.

Washed up jellyfish may be dead, but they still have the ability to sting for several weeks. Dogs often like to investigate everything they come across, but if a jellyfish stings your dog, it’s important to get them seen by a vet as soon as possible if they react.

What should you do if your dog is stung by a jellyfish?

A jellyfish sting can be very painful, especially to your dog. If you think he’s been stung it’s important you remove any stingers and stop the chemical reactions:

Pull the remaining tentacles off with a stick or towel, but never rub them and be careful that you don’t come into contact with them.
Never rub the injured area with sand and always clean it with sea water rather than fresh water.
Contact us straight away.

What are the signs your dog has been stung by a jellyfish?

While it’s unlikely your dog will die from a jellyfish sting, or from licking or swallowing a jellyfish, it can cause an array of symptoms from two minutes to 3 hours after the sting.

There are many types of jellyfish in the ocean, and they have developed several different types of toxins. Common symptoms of a jellyfish sting include:

Nausea, retching and vomiting
Excessive drooling
Swelling
Licking affected area
Difficulty breathing
Quiet and lethargic
Itching
Muscle cramps

The recovery time for dogs stung by a jellyfish ranges from two to 48 hours and most dogs usually recover with no side-effects.

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Cat microchip law: owners given deadline for when cats have to be microchipped – or face £500 fine

A new law was introduced on 13th March that makes microchipping pet cats and keeping contact details up to date compulsory for all owners. The new microchipping rules give owners until 10 June 2024 to microchip their cat, making it easier for pet cats to be returned home safely if lost or stolen.

There are currently over 9 million pet cats in England, with as many as a quarter of them (2.3 million) unchipped. The new rules mean cats must be implanted with a microchip before they reach the age of 20 weeks and their contact details stored and kept up to date in a pet microchipping database.

Environment Secretary Thérèse Coffey said “Cats and kittens are treasured members of the family, and it can be devastating for owners when they are lost or stolen.

“Legislating for compulsory microchipping of cats will give comfort to families by increasing the likelihood that lost or stray pets can be reunited with their owners.”

All owners must have their cat microchipped by 10 June 2024 and owners found not to have microchipped their cat will have 21 days to have one implanted or may face a fine of up to £500.

The introduction of compulsory cat microchipping was a manifesto commitment and an Action Plan for Animal Welfare pledge, following a Government call for evidence and consultation on the issue in which 99% of respondents expressed support for the measure.

Chief Veterinary Officer Christine Middlemiss said “I am pleased that we are progressing with our requirement for all cats to be microchipped.

“Microchipping is by far the most effective and quickest way of identifying lost pets. As we’ve seen with dog microchipping, those who are microchipped are more than twice as likely to be reunited with their owner.

“By getting their cat microchipped, owners can increase the likelihood that they will be reunited with their beloved pet in the event of it going missing.”

The process of microchipping involves the insertion of a chip, generally around the size of a grain of rice, under the skin of a pet. The microchip has a unique serial number that the keeper needs to register on a database. When an animal is found, the microchip can be read with a scanner and the registered keeper identified on a database. No matter how far from home they are found, or how long they have been missing, if a cat has a microchip there is a good chance that a lost cat will be swiftly returned home and reunited with their owner.

It will not be compulsory for free living cats that live with little or no human interaction or dependency, such as farm, feral or community cats.

Owners with cats that are already microchipped should ensure their details are up to date.

The commitment to microchipping is part of a wider Government effort to build on their existing world-leading standards. Since publishing the Action Plan for Animal Welfare in 2021 the UK has brought in new laws to recognise animals sentience, introduced tougher penalties for animal cruelty offences and brought forward a ban on glue traps.

BOOK £15 MICROCHIP

Neutering: why your bunny needs it!

There are several benefits to neutering your rabbits, both from a behavioural and a health point of view. We strongly recommend that all rabbits that are not intended for breeding should be neutered.

Neutering a female rabbit (Doe) is called ‘spaying’ and involves removing the ovaries and womb, whereas neutering a male rabbit (Buck) is called ‘castration’ and involves removing the testicles. Most female rabbits can be neutered from around five months old, but giant breeds take longer to mature, so may be as late as eight months. Male rabbits can be neutered as early as ten weeks.

Rabbits can get pregnant at around three months old, so males and females must be kept separate from this age (ideally a bit before), until after they have been neutered. Females are sterile immediately following the procedure.

Male rabbits can remain fertile for up to six weeks after they have been castrated, so must be kept separate from any un-neutered females in this time.

Reasons to have your rabbit neutered

If you neuter your rabbits, you not only prevent the risk of unwanted litters, but you also reduce the risk of some tumours in females and may reduce territorial aggression and undesired sexual behaviours in both sexes. Here are some of the main benefits:

Pregnancy – The most obvious risk of being unneutered is pregnancy, and most rabbits can get pregnant at around three months old, even if they are related!
Illness – By neutering your rabbits you decrease/eliminate the risk of certain cancers, for example uterine and testicular cancer. Sadly, female rabbits are very likely to develop uterine (womb) cancers relatively early in life. They can also develop womb infections, or other cancers such as mammary (breast tissue) cancer.
Fighting – Rabbits are sociable animals so should always be kept in friendly pairs or groups – the ideal pairing is usually a neutered male and neutered female. Neutering reduces the likelihood of fighting in both male and female rabbits and also means they are less likely to show aggression towards you too.
Urine spraying – neutered rabbits are less likely to spray urine to mark their territory.
Better house training – neutered rabbits are much less likely to exhibit marking behaviours, making it much easier for them to live happily indoors.

What does neutering involve?

Neutering is a surgical procedure, involving a general anaesthetic. Your rabbit will come into the surgery in the morning, stay for the day to have the operation, and in most cases will be reunited with you the same day. Although all surgical procedures come with some risk, neutering is one of the most common procedures undertaken by our vets, and the techniques are very safe.

In males the testicles are removed – this is the main source of the hormone testosterone, so levels of this hormone fall after the surgery. In females the ovaries and the womb (uterus) are removed as standard – this means that your rabbit will no longer be able to fall pregnant.

Whilst all surgical procedures can be uncomfortable, recovery from neutering is usually very rapid. In most cases rabbits are on their feet within a few hours of the procedure and will be given pain-relief drugs for the procedure itself, and throughout recovery. Some rabbits may be subdued for a day or so and may appear drowsy or a little wobbly that evening, but most rabbits are back to their normal selves within a few days.

If you are booking your rabbit in to be neutered by one of our experienced vets, then you will be given full pre and post-operation care instructions.

Could you meet all the welfare needs of a rabbit?

Despite being the third most popular pet in the UK, rabbits are amongst the most misunderstood. They are curious, highly intelligent, social, and fun animals, making caring for them great fun and very rewarding. With the best care they can enjoy full and enriched lives, living as long as dogs and cats.

But rabbits have complex needs and it’s essential they have enough room to exercise, display normal rabbit behaviour and eat the right diet to stay healthy and happy.

Sadly, though too many live out their days confined to a hutch, unable to display the behaviours they would show in the wild. Often this is simply due to the lack of knowledge of new rabbit owners, with the level of advice given to in pet shops, at best, inadequate and at worst, non-existent.

How to keep happy rabbits

Happy rabbits have a lot of energy: they enjoy running around and playing. They’re also very social creatures, so spending time with their family members – human and rabbit – is essential to their well-being. Ideally, they should:

Have a companion – rabbits are happiest when they are half of a bonded pair. If your rabbit is living alone, they could get lonely and bored. To be kept with others, rabbits must be neutered – castrated or spayed (recommend regardless).
Have the right housing – rabbits need the space to be able to hop, stretch out fully, stand up on their hind legs and run around, so a hutch alone is not enough. Give them an environment to display their natural behaviours.
Eat well – their digestive systems are complex and delicately balanced. Feed them unlimited good quality hay, along with fresh vegetables and quality pellets.
Get mental and physical stimulation – rabbits benefit from a rotating collection of toys. They are also incredibly curious little things, so give them puzzles and things to investigate to help stave off boredom.
Be neutered and vaccinated – take them to the vet for annual vaccinations, regular check-ups and if you have any concerns.

Home, Sweet Home

A rabbit’s environment has a direct impact on its health and happiness, with daily exercise vital to their mental and physical health. The big question you need to ask yourself is where will they live – indoors or outside? Both can work well providing the space they have is safe and most importantly big enough for then to display their natural energetic behaviours.

Unfortunately, many commercially produced hutches are simply not big enough for the rabbits they are housing, and lack of advice at the buying stage leaves new owners unaware. A good hutch should be:

At least 6 ft wide x 2 ft deep x 2 ft high.
Dry and free from mildew on the inside.
Draught-free.
Watertight.
Sheltered at the front from direct sunlight or wind exposure.

As rabbits need at least several (ideally eight) hours of exercise a day a predator-proof run will need to be attached to the hutch. This should be:

At least 4 ft wide x 8 ft long x 3 ft high.
Made from sturdy mesh.
Be on firm standing to prevent rabbits burrowing out or predators burrowing in.
Provide shade and things to do.
Have good air flow and light.

How often to clean out your rabbit will depend on how messy your rabbit is, but as a rule, we would advise cleaning out damp toilet areas every day and doing a full clean out at least once a week. Using litter trays with a wood-based cat litter under wood shavings is ideal as they are easy to empty, protect the hutch floor from the abrasive action of the urine and they train the rabbit to use the tray which increases hutch hygiene.

6 signs your rabbit is stressed or unhappy

Sometimes, it can be difficult to know what our rabbits are thinking. As prey animals, the way they behave is different to other common pets and changes to their body language can be subtle. If you know what to look for, it can help you to recognise if they are stressed or unhappy and help get them back to their usual self:

Loss of appetite
Lethargy
Hiding
Overgrooming
Aggression
Obsessive biting

A change in your rabbit’s behaviour can indicate many things e.g. living conditions, loneliness, environment or sickness, but luckily most of these things can easily be rectified with a few simple changes. It’s important to speak to your vet if you notice any unexplainable changes in your rabbits’ behaviour, so they can check if there’s any medical reasons for it.

Think carefully before you jump into buying a rabbit

Rabbits can be affectionate and quickly ingratiate themselves into your home life. Happy bunnies will hop, dance and binky their way into your hearts. But rabbits are not usually:

Good pets for young children.
Pleased to be picked up or petted.
Able to live in small spaces.
Happy living alone.
Easy to look after.

Rabbits have complex needs and it’s important to make sure your rabbits have enough room to exercise, display normal rabbit behaviour and eat the right diet to keep healthy.

The importance of vaccines for rabbits

We all want the best for our rabbits, especially when it comes to keeping them healthy. So, it’s important to vaccinate your bunnies every year against Myxomatosis and two strains of Rabbit Viral Haemorrhagic Disease (RVHD and RVHD2).

There’s a lot of information out there about vaccinations and it can sometimes be confusing. Put simply, vaccinations are needed to:

Protect rabbits from nasty, life-threatening diseases.
Give peace of mind.
Create or boost their immunity to certain diseases.
Prevent rabbits from passing on infectious diseases.

Sadly, a lot of the diseases your rabbit can catch if they aren’t vaccinated can be fatal. Even if your rabbit catches one and recovers, they could be left with long-term problems.

Myxomatosis

They can be injected from five weeks old, and they’ll need boosters every year with the new triple combination vaccine.

It doesn’t guarantee absolute protection from Myxomatosis, but the disease will be milder in vaccinated rabbits, appearing as a single skin lesion, or a short, fairly minor illness. Vaccinated rabbits with Myxomatosis usually survive, unfortunately unvaccinated rabbits tend not to.

Rabbit Viral Haemorrhagic Disease (RVHD)

You’ll need to protect your rabbits against two strains of RVHD, known as RVHD1 and RVHD2. Your rabbits can be injected from five weeks old and they’ll need a booster every 12 months.

Vaccination is very effective. If your rabbit has never had a standalone RVHD2 vaccine, then it should be given as a one-off the first time you vaccinate.

Rabbit vaccination myths

Vaccinating your rabbits is the most important measure you can take to protect them. There are many misleading ideas surrounding your bunnies’ jabs. Here we debunk some common myths:

MYTH: Vaccinations can damage a rabbit’s health

Just like in humans a vaccination can make a pet feel a bit ‘off-colour’ for a day or two, but if you’re worried that your rabbit seems very unwell, check with your vet. Some rabbits can develop a mild case of Myxomatosis after vaccination, although this can usually be treated successfully by your vet. It’s worth bearing in mind that as a vaccine can take a week or two to become fully effective, there’s always a chance your rabbit was exposed to the disease before vaccination took place.

MYTH: House rabbits don’t need to be vaccinated

This is not true – Myxi is spread by fleas and mosquitoes, which fly indoors as well as outside, and RVHD can be carried inside on hay and vegetables, or even on your clothes or shoes. Rabbit diseases exist in both urban and rural areas, especially if there’s a wild rabbit population nearby.

MYTH: RVHD is not a common disease in the UK

Although less common than Myxomatosis, RVHD and RVHD2 are on the rise. These diseases cause internal or external bleeding, but the signs aren’t always obvious as your pet may just seem lethargic. If a rabbit dies without warning, and their owner doesn’t visit the vet, the reason for its death can go unknown. So, the incidences of RVHD in the UK could be a lot higher than we realise.

MYTH: Once a baby bunny is vaccinated, it’s immune to common diseases for life

Not true – rabbits can be vaccinated from five weeks old, and then need a booster every year for the rest of their lives.’ These vaccinations protect against the most common rabbit diseases: Myxomatosis (Myxi), RVHD and RVHD2.

MYTH: Myxomatosis vaccinations don’t always work

While a Myxomatosis vaccination can’t guarantee absolute protection, vaccinated rabbits with Myxi usually survive whereas the disease is likely to be fatal in unvaccinated ones.

MYTH: Rabbit vaccinations are more effective when they’re given in spring

Myxomatosis is most common in late summer and autumn, so it makes sense to vaccinate in spring or early summer for maximum immunity when the disease is at its peak. But rabbits can be vaccinated safely and effectively at any time of year. It’s also the perfect opportunity for a top-to-tail health check.