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On 1^st September our regulatory body, the Royal College of Veterinary Surgeons (RCVS) introduced new guidance on prescribing prescription-only medicines.

The new guidance requires that a physical examination of your pet must be performed every time any antibiotics, antifungals, antivirals and antiparasiticides are prescribed.

The guidance is an important step towards ensuring responsible antimicrobial use and reduces the veterinary impact on the wider issues of global antibiotic resistance and decline in insect populations.

How will this affect you?
Your pet will need to come in for an in-person consultation and examination every time:

• That we need to prescribe antibiotics – whether in tablet form or in topicals (such as ear and eye preparations).
• We/you decide to change from one flea/worm/tick product to another or have not been seen within the last 12 months.

We are unable to dispense the above medications based on urine/faecal testing alone.

For long term prescription medication that is not an antimicrobial/antiparasitic, our usual policy of requiring an examination every 3 months continues to apply.

The consultations will be charged at our usual fees.

You can read the full guidance from the RCVS on their website.

Mites are very small parasites that will often only be seen with magnification or a microscope. They live within or on the skin and often cause intense irritation, such that the signs an affected pet will show are usually the result of self-damage through scratching and biting.

Five types of mites are common in pets:

• Sarcoptes – This is the mange mite (‘fox mange’, ‘scabies’), which is relatively common in dogs, but rare in cats. It causes severe irritation, is highly contagious and may also pass to humans!
• Ear Mites – The ear mite, otodectes, lives on the skin that lines the long ear canal of dogs and cats. It is very common in puppies and kittens and causes very itchy ears that will produce a lot of thick brown waxy discharge.
• Cheyletiella – Often referred to as ‘walking dandruff’ this mite, which can also affect humans, produces an itchy, scurfy skin mainly on the body of dogs.
• Harvest Mites – As its name suggests, is common in late summer and often found on the head and legs of dogs and cats after walking through long grass. It is distinctly recognisable as clusters of bright orange mites.
• Demodex – these unusual mites are found within the hair follicles and sebaceous (skin) glands. They are not contagious and tend to cause disease when the immune system of the animal is suppressed.

Treatment

The diagnosis of mite infestations can sometimes be difficult and treatment protocols will vary according to the type of mite. It is very important that if your pet shows any increase in scratching or itchiness is brought to the attention of your vet, especially if there are also signs of skin or hair damage.

A new law was introduced on 13th March that makes microchipping pet cats and keeping contact details up to date compulsory for all owners. The new microchipping rules give owners until 10 June 2024 to microchip their cat, making it easier for pet cats to be returned home safely if lost or stolen.

There are currently over 9 million pet cats in England, with as many as a quarter of them (2.3 million) unchipped. The new rules mean cats must be implanted with a microchip before they reach the age of 20 weeks and their contact details stored and kept up to date in a pet microchipping database.

Environment Secretary Thérèse Coffey said “Cats and kittens are treasured members of the family, and it can be devastating for owners when they are lost or stolen.

“Legislating for compulsory microchipping of cats will give comfort to families by increasing the likelihood that lost or stray pets can be reunited with their owners.”

All owners must have their cat microchipped by 10 June 2024 and owners found not to have microchipped their cat will have 21 days to have one implanted or may face a fine of up to £500.

The introduction of compulsory cat microchipping was a manifesto commitment and an Action Plan for Animal Welfare pledge, following a Government call for evidence and consultation on the issue in which 99% of respondents expressed support for the measure.

Chief Veterinary Officer Christine Middlemiss said “I am pleased that we are progressing with our requirement for all cats to be microchipped.

“Microchipping is by far the most effective and quickest way of identifying lost pets. As we’ve seen with dog microchipping, those who are microchipped are more than twice as likely to be reunited with their owner.

“By getting their cat microchipped, owners can increase the likelihood that they will be reunited with their beloved pet in the event of it going missing.”

The process of microchipping involves the insertion of a chip, generally around the size of a grain of rice, under the skin of a pet. The microchip has a unique serial number that the keeper needs to register on a database. When an animal is found, the microchip can be read with a scanner and the registered keeper identified on a database. No matter how far from home they are found, or how long they have been missing, if a cat has a microchip there is a good chance that a lost cat will be swiftly returned home and reunited with their owner.

It will not be compulsory for free living cats that live with little or no human interaction or dependency, such as farm, feral or community cats.

Owners with cats that are already microchipped should ensure their details are up to date.

The commitment to microchipping is part of a wider Government effort to build on their existing world-leading standards. Since publishing the Action Plan for Animal Welfare in 2021 the UK has brought in new laws to recognise animals sentience, introduced tougher penalties for animal cruelty offences and brought forward a ban on glue traps.

There are several benefits to neutering your rabbits, both from a behavioural and a health point of view. We strongly recommend that all rabbits that are not intended for breeding should be neutered.

Neutering a female rabbit (Doe) is called ‘spaying’ and involves removing the ovaries and womb, whereas neutering a male rabbit (Buck) is called ‘castration’ and involves removing the testicles. Most female rabbits can be neutered from around five months old, but giant breeds take longer to mature, so may be as late as eight months. Male rabbits can be neutered as early as ten weeks.

Rabbits can get pregnant at around three months old, so males and females must be kept separate from this age (ideally a bit before), until after they have been neutered. Females are sterile immediately following the procedure.

Male rabbits can remain fertile for up to six weeks after they have been castrated, so must be kept separate from any un-neutered females in this time.

Reasons to have your rabbit neutered

If you neuter your rabbits, you not only prevent the risk of unwanted litters, but you also reduce the risk of some tumours in females and may reduce territorial aggression and undesired sexual behaviours in both sexes. Here are some of the main benefits:

• Pregnancy – The most obvious risk of being unneutered is pregnancy, and most rabbits can get pregnant at around three months old, even if they are related!
• Illness – By neutering your rabbits you decrease/eliminate the risk of certain cancers, for example uterine and testicular cancer. Sadly, female rabbits are very likely to develop uterine (womb) cancers relatively early in life. They can also develop womb infections, or other cancers such as mammary (breast tissue) cancer.
• Fighting – Rabbits are sociable animals so should always be kept in friendly pairs or groups – the ideal pairing is usually a neutered male and neutered female. Neutering reduces the likelihood of fighting in both male and female rabbits and also means they are less likely to show aggression towards you too.
• Urine spraying – neutered rabbits are less likely to spray urine to mark their territory.
• Better house training – neutered rabbits are much less likely to exhibit marking behaviours, making it much easier for them to live happily indoors.

What does neutering involve?

Neutering is a surgical procedure, involving a general anaesthetic. Your rabbit will come into the surgery in the morning, stay for the day to have the operation, and in most cases will be reunited with you the same day. Although all surgical procedures come with some risk, neutering is one of the most common procedures undertaken by our vets, and the techniques are very safe.

In males the testicles are removed – this is the main source of the hormone testosterone, so levels of this hormone fall after the surgery. In females the ovaries and the womb (uterus) are removed as standard – this means that your rabbit will no longer be able to fall pregnant.

Whilst all surgical procedures can be uncomfortable, recovery from neutering is usually very rapid. In most cases rabbits are on their feet within a few hours of the procedure and will be given pain-relief drugs for the procedure itself, and throughout recovery. Some rabbits may be subdued for a day or so and may appear drowsy or a little wobbly that evening, but most rabbits are back to their normal selves within a few days.

If you are booking your rabbit in to be neutered by one of our experienced vets, then you will be given full pre and post-operation care instructions.

Despite being the third most popular pet in the UK, rabbits are amongst the most misunderstood. They are curious, highly intelligent, social, and fun animals, making caring for them great fun and very rewarding. With the best care they can enjoy full and enriched lives, living as long as dogs and cats.

But rabbits have complex needs and it’s essential they have enough room to exercise, display normal rabbit behaviour and eat the right diet to stay healthy and happy.

Sadly, though too many live out their days confined to a hutch, unable to display the behaviours they would show in the wild. Often this is simply due to the lack of knowledge of new rabbit owners, with the level of advice given to in pet shops, at best, inadequate and at worst, non-existent.

How to keep happy rabbits

Happy rabbits have a lot of energy: they enjoy running around and playing. They’re also very social creatures, so spending time with their family members – human and rabbit – is essential to their well-being. Ideally, they should:

• Have a companion – rabbits are happiest when they are half of a bonded pair. If your rabbit is living alone, they could get lonely and bored. To be kept with others, rabbits must be neutered – castrated or spayed (recommend regardless).
• Have the right housing – rabbits need the space to be able to hop, stretch out fully, stand up on their hind legs and run around, so a hutch alone is not enough. Give them an environment to display their natural behaviours.
• Eat well – their digestive systems are complex and delicately balanced. Feed them unlimited good quality hay, along with fresh vegetables and quality pellets.
• Get mental and physical stimulation – rabbits benefit from a rotating collection of toys. They are also incredibly curious little things, so give them puzzles and things to investigate to help stave off boredom.
• Be neutered and vaccinated – take them to the vet for annual vaccinations, regular check-ups and if you have any concerns.

Home, Sweet Home

A rabbit’s environment has a direct impact on its health and happiness, with daily exercise vital to their mental and physical health. The big question you need to ask yourself is where will they live – indoors or outside? Both can work well providing the space they have is safe and most importantly big enough for then to display their natural energetic behaviours.

Unfortunately, many commercially produced hutches are simply not big enough for the rabbits they are housing, and lack of advice at the buying stage leaves new owners unaware. A good hutch should be:

• At least 6 ft wide x 2 ft deep x 2 ft high.
• Dry and free from mildew on the inside.
• Draught-free.
• Watertight.
• Sheltered at the front from direct sunlight or wind exposure.

As rabbits need at least several (ideally eight) hours of exercise a day a predator-proof run will need to be attached to the hutch. This should be:

• At least 4 ft wide x 8 ft long x 3 ft high.
• Made from sturdy mesh.
• Be on firm standing to prevent rabbits burrowing out or predators burrowing in.
• Provide shade and things to do.
• Have good air flow and light.

How often to clean out your rabbit will depend on how messy your rabbit is, but as a rule, we would advise cleaning out damp toilet areas every day and doing a full clean out at least once a week. Using litter trays with a wood-based cat litter under wood shavings is ideal as they are easy to empty, protect the hutch floor from the abrasive action of the urine and they train the rabbit to use the tray which increases hutch hygiene.

6 signs your rabbit is stressed or unhappy

Sometimes, it can be difficult to know what our rabbits are thinking. As prey animals, the way they behave is different to other common pets and changes to their body language can be subtle. If you know what to look for, it can help you to recognise if they are stressed or unhappy and help get them back to their usual self:

1. Loss of appetite
2. Lethargy
3. Hiding
4. Overgrooming
5. Aggression
6. Obsessive biting

A change in your rabbit’s behaviour can indicate many things e.g. living conditions, loneliness, environment or sickness, but luckily most of these things can easily be rectified with a few simple changes. It’s important to speak to your vet if you notice any unexplainable changes in your rabbits’ behaviour, so they can check if there’s any medical reasons for it.

Think carefully before you jump into buying a rabbit

Rabbits can be affectionate and quickly ingratiate themselves into your home life. Happy bunnies will hop, dance and binky their way into your hearts. But rabbits are not usually:

• Good pets for young children.
• Pleased to be picked up or petted.
• Able to live in small spaces.
• Happy living alone.
• Easy to look after.

Rabbits have complex needs and it’s important to make sure your rabbits have enough room to exercise, display normal rabbit behaviour and eat the right diet to keep healthy.

We all want the best for our rabbits, especially when it comes to keeping them healthy. So, it’s important to vaccinate your bunnies every year against Myxomatosis and two strains of Rabbit Viral Haemorrhagic Disease (RVHD and RVHD2).

There’s a lot of information out there about vaccinations and it can sometimes be confusing. Put simply, vaccinations are needed to:

• Protect rabbits from nasty, life-threatening diseases.
• Give peace of mind.
• Create or boost their immunity to certain diseases.
• Prevent rabbits from passing on infectious diseases.

Sadly, a lot of the diseases your rabbit can catch if they aren’t vaccinated can be fatal. Even if your rabbit catches one and recovers, they could be left with long-term problems.

Myxomatosis

This is a viral disease that can cause a variety of symptoms varying from thickened skin lumps on the eyelids, nose and head to severe swellings of the skin of the ears, lips and genitals. If affected with the severe form, unfortunately, the majority of cases are fatal.

Myxomatosis spreads via wild rabbits, mosquitos and fleas.

Vaccinated rabbits can unfortunately still catch the disease but it is usually limited to a mild form and generally they will recover.

Rabbit Viral Haemorrhagic Disease (RVHD)

There are 2 strains of this virus, RVHD1 and RVHD2. This virus can attack internal organs causing internal bleeding and is usually fatal. Rabbits infected with RVHD1 can show signs such as respiratory distress, fever, reduced appetite and often bleeding from the nose and is usually fatal within 2 days. RVHD2 can develop more slowly but is often fatal within 1-2 weeks. Recently, unfortunately, a more virulent strain of RVHD2 has been found, which isn’t covered by the traditional vaccine.

Both strains can be spread via direct contact from wild rabbits, on bedding, hay or clothing and via fleas and it is now thought via birds and their droppings and even on the wind. The virus is very resistant and can survive for months in the environment.

What vaccines are available?

A triple combination vaccine that protects against Myxomatosis and RHVD1 and 2, AND a new vaccine which covers the more virulent RVHD2 strain.

For complete protection RAW (Rabbit Welfare Association UK) are advising vaccination with the triple combination vaccine AND the new RVHD2 vaccine. These vaccines can be given 2-4 weeks apart.

Rabbit vaccination myths

Vaccinating your rabbits is the most important measure you can take to protect them. There are many misleading ideas surrounding your bunnies’ jabs. Here we debunk some common myths:

MYTH: Vaccinations can damage a rabbit’s health
Just like in humans a vaccination can make a pet feel a bit ‘off-colour’ for a day or two, but if you’re worried that your rabbit seems very unwell, check with your vet. Some rabbits can develop a mild case of Myxomatosis after vaccination, although this can usually be treated successfully by your vet. It’s worth bearing in mind that as a vaccine can take a week or two to become fully effective, there’s always a chance your rabbit was exposed to the disease before vaccination took place.

MYTH: House rabbits don’t need to be vaccinated
This is not true – Myxi is spread by fleas and mosquitoes, which fly indoors as well as outside, and RVHD can be carried inside on hay and vegetables, or even on your clothes or shoes. Rabbit diseases exist in both urban and rural areas, especially if there’s a wild rabbit population nearby.

MYTH: RVHD is not a common disease in the UK
Although less common than Myxomatosis, RVHD and RVHD2 are on the rise. These diseases cause internal or external bleeding, but the signs aren’t always obvious as your pet may just seem lethargic. If a rabbit dies without warning, and their owner doesn’t visit the vet, the reason for its death can go unknown. So, the incidences of RVHD in the UK could be a lot higher than we realise.

MYTH: Once a baby bunny is vaccinated, it’s immune to common diseases for life
Not true – rabbits can be vaccinated from five weeks old, and then need a booster every year for the rest of their lives.’ These vaccinations protect against the most common rabbit diseases: Myxomatosis (Myxi), RVHD and RVHD2.

MYTH: Myxomatosis vaccinations don’t always work
While a Myxomatosis vaccination can’t guarantee absolute protection, vaccinated rabbits with Myxi usually survive whereas the disease is likely to be fatal in unvaccinated ones.

MYTH: Rabbit vaccinations are more effective when they’re given in spring
Myxomatosis is most common in late summer and autumn, so it makes sense to vaccinate in spring or early summer for maximum immunity when the disease is at its peak. But rabbits can be vaccinated safely and effectively at any time of year. It’s also the perfect opportunity for a top-to-tail health check.

The health of your mouth can have a significant impact on your general health and wellbeing, and it’s no different for pets! Dental health is a critical part of your pet’s overall health, and just like us, dental problems can cause, or be caused by, other health problems.

Neglecting oral hygiene can cause pets to suffer from a broad range of oral problems, leading to issues like tartar build up, gum disease and even more serious health problems like heart disease, lung disease and kidney disease.

With some figures reporting over 80% of dogs suffer from some kind of gum disease while around 70% of cats are affected by dental disease by the time they are three-years-old knowing how to look after their teeth is an important part of keeping your furry friend healthy.

Signs of a problem with your pet’s teeth or mouth might include;
• Smelly breath
• Difficulty eating
• A change in behaviour
• Weight loss
• Pain or rubbing at the mouth
• Excess drooling or salivation
• Redness or bleeding around the gums

Top tips to prevent dental health issues in pets

Effective dental care is as critical for pets as it is for humans. When it comes to dental health care in pets, offense is the best defence. Being proactive and having a great care routine is essential for helping your pet keep dental disease at bay.As February is Pet Dental Health Month, we thought now is the perfect time to share our top tips for a healthy smile.

Regular and effective brushing
Cleaning your pet’s teeth is the most effective way to prevent them from developing oral health problems. Regular brushing will not only lower the risk of them developing gum disease, dental disease, and many more dental-related illnesses, but can prevent the build-up of plaque (which when hardened can only be removed by a vet).

To maintain healthy teeth and gums, we recommend that you brush your pet’s teeth 2-4 times a week. However, it is important to use the right equipment; a soft bristled brush is best, and ensure you use a special pet toothpaste (as the fluoride in human toothpaste can be toxic to pets). If in doubt, ask your vet to recommend a suitable toothpaste for your pet.

If you pet is hesitant to you brushing their teeth, try letting them lick the toothpaste off your finger initially, then work up to running your finger over their teeth, before eventually swapping to a toothbrush.

Regular brushing will also help them gain fresher breath – something that I’m sure many of you will appreciate!

Feed a healthy diet for healthy teeth!
Another similarity you share with your pet is that you both need a healthy balanced diet – not just for oral health but for the benefit of the whole body! Alongside regular brushing, to maintain healthy teeth and gums you should feed your pet a nutritious balanced diet. Here are four diet guidelines that will keep your pet smiling.

Use a dental diet – Some dry pet foods are specially designed to keep your pet’s teeth clean by scraping away plaque as they eat. Speak to your vet about the best and most reliable dental diets for your pet.

Dental chews and treats – These can be effective in reducing the build-up of plaque. Just make sure that they are formulated for this purpose by always reading the label before you buy, and as most chews and treats contain lots of calories it’s best to use them sparingly!

Cut out sugary snacks – Human treats are not meant for pets! Treat your pet but be careful not to overdo it…even if your pet is giving you the puppy dog eyes.

Beware of teeth-wrecking toys and chews – You should be wary of giving pets hard toys, raw bones or anything else they may find difficult to chew, as they can increase the risk of tooth fractures and breaks.

Visit your vet regularly
Similarly to the dentist, your vet isn’t just there for when your pet has an issue! The best cure is prevention and visiting the vet regularly will help you avoid any potential problems before they arise.

Your veterinary nurse or vet is also the best person to ask for guidance on how to maintain great oral health in your pet(s) between visits. Don’t hesitate to ask any questions because keeping on top of your pet’s oral hygiene can have positive effects overall.

Just like us, pets benefit from maintaining good oral hygiene. By staying on top of your pet’s dental needs you can help to keep them happy and healthy. In fact, it’s as important for our pets to receive dental care as it is for humans, so maintaining good oral hygiene should be as much a part of your pet’s life as it is yours.