paige_soap, Author at Oakhill Vets

Endometritis

Clinical endometritis or “whites” is defined as the presence of pus in the vagina from 21 days after calving. The greatest impact and cost of endometritis is due to its detrimental effect on fertility, which persists way beyond the duration of the disease itself. In addition to creating a uterine environment which is unfavourable for embryo development, endometritis also disrupts follicle growth, leading to reduced egg quality. This is particularly important for eggs which are ovulated between 60-120 days in milk.

The impact of endometritis on fertility:

Calving to first service interval was extended by 11 days
Conception was delayed by 32 days
Cattle were 1.7 times more likely to be culled for reproductive failure

From a study of over 10,000 dairy cattle

80-90% of cows have bacterial contamination of the uterus post-calving.

So why do some cows develop endometritis and others don’t?

Risk factors associated with endometritis:

Trauma of the reproductive tract:
- Retained fetal membranes
- Twins
- Large calves
- Dystocia
- Caesarean section
- Stillbirth
Reduced immune function around calving:
- Metabolic disease
- Negative energy balance
- Ketosis
Poor hygiene

A healthy immune system is needed to clear bacterial contamination of the uterus. Anything which causes uterine damage, even on a microscopic level, will compromise the cows ability to clear uterine infections. A lack of energy or metabolic stress will further hinder the cows immune response.

The weight of the uterus changes from 9kg at calving to 1kg by 30 days in milk. This process of involution requires a healthy immune system, energy and essential nutrients. Cows experiencing metabolic stress post-calving will have a compromised immune response are more likely to develop endometritis.

Up to 80% of cows with endometritis show no vulval discharge. Checking cows for “whites” after 21 days post calving will help to identify affected cows so that they can be treated promptly. A target for the incidence of clinical endometritis is <5%.

Coccidiosis

Almost all cattle will be infected with coccidia during calfhood but disease only occurs if they are exposed to a heavy parasite challenge or if their resistance is lowered through stress, poor nutrition or concurrent disease. Calves between 3 weeks – 6 months of age are most at risk. Over 95% of the losses associated with coccidiosis are not immediately obvious:

→ reduced feed conversion efficiency and reduced growth rate

→ Delayed time to service

→ Reduced conception rate

Did you know? Less than 5% of affected calves exhibit clinical disease:
• Dehydration
• Inappetence, weight loss
• Diarrhoea, possibly bloody, straining
• Impaired absorption of water and nutrients
• Rough coat
• Death

Cocci oocysts (eggs) can survive for over 1 year in the environment between -30 and +40°C and are resistant to most disinfectants. Only a few oocyts need to be ingested to cause disease and the parasite multiplies rapidly in the gut. A single infected calf can shed millions of oocysts in its faeces therefore the environment can become heavily contaminated very quickly.

Effective control relies upon treating infected animals during the early stages of parasite development. This allows calves to acquire immunity to the parasite whilst avoiding the negative consequences of disease. Good hygiene practices alone are insufficient to manage coccidiosis as environmental contamination is inevitable. However, improving shed hygiene can aid in reducing the infection pressure.

Control of Coccidiosis:

Dosing calf groups 10-14 days after they have been moved to contaminated pasture or housing. This prevents disease and reduces oocyte shedding. Treatment during an outbreak is of limited value as the damage to the small intestine has already occurred.
Minimise oocyst intake. Prevent feed and water sources becoming contaminated with faeces. Feed from clean, elevated troughs. Avoid the transfer of faeces between older and younger groups of calves.
Ensure calves have a healthy immune system. Provide optimal nutrition and prevent concurrent disease (pneumonia, BVD, salmonella) which will make them more likely to succumb to coccidiosis.
Minimise stress such as re-grouping, dietary change and overstocking.

Preventative Treatment

A single treatment with Tolracol (toltrazuril) is effective against all stages of the parasite. Products containing diclazuril (Vecoxan, Dycoxan) only treat certain stages of the parasite. These products are usually slightly cheaper, but calves may need to be dosed twice. Alternatively, decoquinate can be used as an in-feed medication. Decoquinate must be fed continuously for as long as calves are at risk as it only stops the initial phase of the coccidia life cycle. Calves may succumb to coccidiosis once they stop receiving the medicated feed. Lick buckets containing decoquinate are not recommended as not all animals will consume the required amount to be effective.

The dangers of heatstroke – Don’t leave dogs in hot cars

What dogs are at risk?

All dogs of all sizes and ages. Overweight or short-nosed dogs such as Bulldogs and Pugs being at higher risk.

Why can’t my dog cool himself down?

Unlike humans, dogs are unable to sweat efficiently, and rely on panting to help cool themselves.

When is it too hot to leave my dog in the car?

Even if the weather looks cloudy, leaving your dog alone in the car is VERY DANGEROUS and CAN LEAD TO DEATH, even if windows are left open.

If the temperature outside is 22°C, the temperature inside the car can reach as high as 47°C within 60 minutes.

TOP TIPS – How to keep safe in the heat with your dog:

✅ NEVER leave your dog alone in a car, conservatory or caravan – even if the weather looks cloudy⁠
✅ When travelling in the car with your dog have the temperature set to cool, and open windows where necessary to allow a fresh flow of air⁠
✅ Always carry water with you and when out and about on walks, offer a drink of water regularly⁠
✅ Seek shaded spots to allow your dog chance to cool down⁠
✅ Don’t allow your dog to exercise excessively on hot days⁠
✅ Give fluffy or longhaired breeds a short haircut to keep them cool⁠

Understanding Lungworm in dogs

What is lungworm?

Lungworm is an emerging parasite that affects dogs in the UK. It has become very common in Southern England and South Wales and cases are increasingly occurring in Northern England and Scotland. This is a potentially fatal disease so something we all need be aware of.

Lungworm (Angiostrongylus vasorum) is a parasite that can cause breathing problems and coughing due to its effects on the lungs. It can also affect blood clotting which can potentially cause nose bleeds, bleeding into the eye and excessive bleeding from minor wounds, among other signs.

How do dogs catch it?

Lungworm parasites can be carried by dogs and foxes, so it appears increasing numbers of foxes, especially in urban areas, increases the spread of the parasite. Dogs become infected by ingesting slugs or snails (or their slime) as these contain the infective larvae. Any dog eating slugs, snails or grass in an affected area is at risk.

Larvae may also be ingested by dogs when drinking from puddles. Dog toys or bowls left out in the garden at night are thought to be a source of infection as they attract slugs and snails and may get covered in slime. The parasite does not pass directly from dog to dog. However, picking up dog faeces will reduce the level of parasites getting into the slug/snail population.

Interesting fact…lungworm does not affect cats!

What are the symptoms to look for?

Lungworm disease can easily be missed as often the signs can mimic a lot of other diseases e.g. clotting disorders, bronchitis, neurological signs, anaemia, general malaise etc.

Diagnosis is either from finding larvae in faeces of an affected dog or from a blood test detecting presence of the parasite. Also, chest x-rays or endoscopy of the airways may be used if there are respiratory signs.

Treatment

Prompt treatment is needed of affected cases as the disease can be fatal, unfortunately. However, cases caught early enough can be treated and will usually recover.

Prevention of this parasite is with monthly use of a suitable anti parasitic. Routine combined roundworm/tapeworm treatments are ineffective against this parasite. Only those products available from your vet or on prescription will be effective. Milbemycin (eg Milbemax) will prevent this parasite but needs to be given monthly.

Other measures to reduce risk of infection include:

trying to stop your dog eating slugs or snails
avoiding leaving toys outside overnight
regularly cleaning outside water bowls
picking up poo – this reduces the spread of the parasite

If you think your dog may be at risk or is showing symptoms, please speak to one of the team at Oakhill for advice.

Fleas: Everything pet owners need to know

Fleas are tiny wingless insects which feed on the bloods of animals, including pets and wildlife. They reproduce very quickly producing hundreds of tiny eggs which quickly cause an infestation in the house. Anyone who has had this problem knows how difficult this can be to clear!

They can be very difficult to spot on your pet as they are extremely small and move very quickly. Often you will be more likely to find ‘flea dirt’ (poo) which are tiny, grainy dark flecks in your pet’s coat. Sometimes fleas can cause extreme itching and overgrooming, especially in cats. Then you may not find any fleas or dirts as they are being removed by the pet during grooming.

The best way to prevent an infestation is to use a regular effective flea product which kills fleas. It is much more difficult to clear an infestation once the fleas are in your home. This can take weeks.

A multitude of products are available for the treatment or prevention of fleas. Some products are more effective than others. Not all products available over the counter will be effective in killing fleas. Please ask one of our team for advice on this.

If you have an infestation, you will need to treat all the animals in the household with an effective product. Also, the house will need to be treated as this is where all those nasty eggs will be lurking (95% of the infestation is in the carpets etc). At one point in the flea life cycle the baby fleas turn into a pupal stage which is covered by a hard cocoon. These pupae are really difficult to kill. This is why it takes so long to clear an infestation. You need to wait until these pupal stages hatch so they can be killed by an insecticide.

Clearing an infestation

turn up the heating – the fleas will hatch out quicker if it’s warm
vacuum regularly – this will remove some of the fleas/pupae but also the vibration will also encourage them to hatch
wash any pet bedding on a hot wash (don’t forget your own bedding if pets have slept there)
treat furniture and carpets with effective flea spray (follow instructions/use test areas)
don’t forget to treat the carpets in the car

Flea Allergic Dermatitis (FAD)

This is where the pet becomes allergic to flea saliva. Every time a flea bites it causes intense irritation. This leads to intense scratching and scabs especially around the head and neck and at the base of the tail. Often the pet, especially cats, will pull out a lot of fur with resulting bald areas.

Tapeworm

Parasites are clever beasts! Fleas and tapeworms have a combined life cycle where fleas themselves are infested with tapeworm. Any pet which has a flea infestation should also be treated for tapeworm. Again, ask a member of staff for best treatments for this.

Anaemia

Severe flea infestations can cause life threatening anaemia in extreme cases, especially in puppies or kittens. This is due to the sheer amount of blood they are sucking from the pet.

It’s much easier to avoid a flea infestation by the regular use of effective insecticides. Please ask one of our team about joining our 365 Care Plan which spreads the cost of your regular preventative health care and gives great savings!

Kennel Cough

Kennel Cough is a respiratory disease that’s highly contagious. You may also hear this disease be referred to as canine infectious tracheobronchitis.

The name ‘kennel’ cough can be misleading – in fact your dog doesn’t have to go in kennels to catch the disease.

Dogs can spread the disease through contaminated surfaces, shared food/water bowls, water droplets in the air, coughing and sneezing and direct contact with another dog.

Some owners choose to vaccinate their dogs against Kennel Cough even if they don’t go into kennels, as all dogs are at risk of contracting the disease.

What is kennel cough?

Kennel cough is caused by several infectious agents, which irritate the trachea (windpipe) and cause a nasty cough. Kennel cough is very contagious as is spread in the air, from infected dogs or the environment (where the kennel cough germs can be contained within water droplets). Spread is more likely when multiple dogs gather in the same air space, such as kennels or shows.

What are the symptoms?

Symptoms develop in 3-14 days and include:

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A forceful cough that has a honking sound to it.
Loss of appetite.
Runny nose.
Sneezing/snorting
Retching/gagging
Fever – although this is rare.
Lethargy (seeming tired)

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In most cases the dog will only have a cough and recover within a few weeks. However, in very young, old or immuno-compromised animals it can be more serious, and in rare cases can cause secondary pneumonia.

Infection can be spread for up to 2-4 weeks after the symptoms have resolved so we advise to keep them separated from other dogs during this time.

What is the treatment?

Non steroidal anti-inflammatories can be prescribed to reduce fever and inflammation
Antibiotics are only needed in occasional severe cases.
Other treatments are sometimes used, such as medicines to reduce the mucus production, or even honey licked off a spoon to soothe the cough.

How can you prevent kennel cough?

Kennel cough vaccinations are available as an intranasal (into the nose) or oral (into the mouth) vaccination. The nasal vaccination can be given at the same time as your dogs yearly booster. The oral vaccine needs to be given on its own 2-4 weeks before your dog can attend.

Most reputable kennels or day care centres will request the kennel cough vaccination. The oral vaccine needs to be given on its own.

No vaccine is 100% although a vaccinated dog is less likely to catch kennel cough, and if they do are likely to have milder symptoms and a quicker recovery than an unvaccinated dog. As a live vaccine, the Kennel Cough vaccine can cause a mild cough for a few days after vaccination.

BBQ safety: top tips for pet owners

There’s nothing better than enjoying a barbecue with loved ones during the great British summer. But there are a lot of potential dangers for our much-loved pets that we need to be mindful of.

Every summer we see a rise in injuries and poisonings, particularly when the weather is warm and sunny. Swallowing kebab skewers, eating cooked bones, developing food poisoning, or sustaining burn injuries from stealing piping hot food from the BBQ are the most common. Pets can also sustain traumatic injuries such as getting their tails stuck in patio doors and breaking their legs.

Follow these simple tips to make sure your barbecue is fun for everyone – including our furry friends!

1. Remember party food is not for pets

Is your dog a master of puppy dog eyes? Don’t give in, and make sure your guests know the rules too! Be aware which human foods are dangerous to your pets: alcohol, corn on the cob and bones are particularly dangerous BBQ hazards.

Food scraps can upset your pet’s stomach and undercooked or fatty foods can cause inflammation of the pancreas (pancreatitis) which can be very serious, and sometimes even fatal. Try giving them a healthy chew to chomp on or a fun toy to play with instead. It will keep them occupied while you enjoy your food in peace.

2. Bin it…securely!

We all know how skilled our pets, particularly dogs, can be when it comes to sniffing out tasty leftovers. If you don’t keep a close eye on them, pets can easily get hold of something they shouldn’t. A big problem at barbecues is pets eating things like kebab skewers or the core from a corn on the cob. These can cause serious and potentially life-threatening problems, such as gut blockages and injuries for dogs and cats.

Make sure any leftovers and rubbish are thrown away in a lidded bin that your pet can’t raid. All those food smells will be super tempting for pets, so your bin needs to be secure!

3. Keep temptation out of reach

There’s likely to be several poisonous temptations at your barbecue; lighter fluid, alcoholic drinks, sugar-free treats and chocolate desserts to name a few. Remember how inquisitive pets can be and don’t underestimate how far they can reach when they want something! Keep anything harmful well out of harm’s way.

4. Too hot to handle!

Keep pets a safe distance away from the barbecue by establishing boundaries. Sizzling sausages can be hard for a dog to resist, but a stolen sausage off the BBQ grill is way too hot to handle. Plus, when swallowed whole they can cause stomach ulcers and dehydration.

Hot food, hot coals and ashes can all cause serious burns. Always make sure the BBQ is cooled down quickly once you’ve finished cooking and never leave pets on their own around it while it’s still hot.

5. Beware of smoke

Fumes can be very irritating for pets, especially as many of them have sensitive airways. Make sure your pets are far away from the BBQ and not downwind of any smoke. This is especially important for small pets and birds; you might need to move their enclosure or the BBQ so they are away from the smoke.

6. Keep them cool and hydrated

Barbecues are hot work – the open flame, the smoky and sizzling food, not to mention the heat of the summer’s day – and our furry friends can quickly overheat! Make sure they can head into the shade or indoors whenever they need to cool down. And if you hear there’s a heatwave coming, think about having your barbecue later in the evening so your pet won’t get too much excitement at the hottest part of the day.

In all the excitement, we often forget to keep ourselves hydrated and the same goes for our pets, who often can’t tell us they’re thirsty and in all their excitement, may not even realise it themselves. Always make sure that your pet has access to fresh, clean water, in a shaded area and encourage them to drink it at regular intervals.

7. Slap on the sun cream

Sun safety is just as important for our pets as it is for us. If you’re feeling the need to slather on the sun cream, it’s likely your pet will need some too especially if they have thin fur, white fur, or pink skin exposed such as the tips of the ears or on the end of the nose. Make sure you use a pet-safe sun cream – your vet will be able to recommend one for you if you’re not sure what to look for.

8. Set up a safe space

Get-togethers can be a busy time with visiting family and friends, so ahead of party time it’s worth making sure your garden is secure and pet safe. With all the distractions, you might not be able to watch your pet as closely, especially while you’re cooking food, entertaining guests or enjoying a well-earned feast. Check the fences and plants ahead of time so you can relax and know your pet is safe and having as much fun as you.

If you’re planning to spruce up your garden, make sure you know which plants are poisonous to your pet. For example, laburnum is poisonous to dogs, lilies are particularly poisonous to cats, and daffodils, rhododendron and yew are poisonous to both dogs and cats.

9. Give them room to take a break

Having a house full of strangers might be a bit stressful for your pet, so it may be worth making sure there’s an unoccupied room for them to relax in. But be careful they don’t get shut into a conservatory or greenhouse, as these can heat up very easily in summer and cause heat stroke which is often life-threatening.

Dogs are usually eager to please and might not want to take a rest even if they’re getting worked up or too hot. Look for warning signs that they’re getting over excited or finding the situation stressful and give them some time to themselves.

Pets who live in the garden, like some rabbits and guinea pigs, might be frightened by the noise of a big group of people. Try to home, cover part of their cage so they can hide away or move their enclosure into a quieter part of the garden.

10. Treat them too

It’s all well and good us saying, ‘Keep your pet away from this, that and the other,’ but this is easier said than done, right? The best way of distracting your pets is by using objects and treats that they’re familiar with. Why not scatter some treats around the garden to keep their minds and taste buds occupied?

This could be a thirst-quenching pet-safe snack, or a puzzle feeder filled with kibble. If you’re having lots of dogs at the barbecue, why not make a batch of dog-safe cakes to share in a few different sizes to suit all your pet’s furry friends?

Ask the vet: dentistry special

I have a 25-year-old gelding who struggles to eat hay in the winter, what can I do?

It is very important that our older horses and ponies have regular dental examinations, usually every 6 months. Older horses teeth can change very quickly and this can result in difficulty eating. Occasionally horses have loose teeth which can be removed and the horse then manages to eat hay again, however, many older horses have gaps between their teeth which need regular management by your vet/dentist. Additionally, dietary alterations can help for example maximising turnout where possible or feeding hay replacers instead of long hay.

My dentist has noticed that my horse has a lot of tooth decay, what can I do to help?

Some horses are more prone to tooth decay than others but it is certainly a condition we want to manage to prevent problems further down the line. One thing that can help reduce the decay is feeding less sugar. This includes apples and any treats that contain molasses or large amounts of sugar additives. If you are looking for a treat alternative, fibre cubes work very well! You can also help your horses decay but rinsing out their mouth of any sugary feed every day. Using a dental syringe works well but if you don’t have one of these, a hosepipe will do the job!

I have recently bought an 8-year-old horse and he has wolf teeth, what should I do?

Wolf teeth are very common, especially in geldings and rarely cause a problem! As long as the wolf teeth are in the correct location and are erupted from the gum they shouldn’t cause trouble. If your horse begins to show resentment to the bit it would be worth arranging an examination with us and we can discuss treatment options.

Stem cell treatment – what’s new?

What are stem cells?

Stem cells are an undifferentiated cell of a multicellular organism which are capable of giving rise to indefinitely more cells of the same type. They are used in musculoskeletal injuries of the horse to improve the quality of repair tissue in injured tissue.

Types of stem cells

Traditionally we obtained cells via a large bore needle placed into the sternum of the horse and extracted bone marrow. Stem cells from the bone marrow were cultured in a laboratory over 30 days and were re-implanted into the injured region of the horse. These cells then differentiated into the environment they were placed in, for example tendon tissue in the case of a tendon injury.

Now, we have the option of commercially available stem cells, thereby avoiding having to harvest the cells from the horse, we can simply buy them in small vials…..amazing!!! There are two types available, one derived from donor horse’s blood, which is treated to make the cells transform into a cartilage type of cell, this is useful in cases of osteoarthritis, whereby the cartilage layer of the joint is damaged.

The other type is humanely and ethically harvested from umbilical cord blood, which is wonderful as these cells can transform into any cell type! They can be implanted into joints, tendons and ligaments and will transform according to the environment in which they are implanted which is particularly helpful!

The clinical use of stem cells

Stem cell treatment is not a magical cure for these musculoskeletal injuries, but they do improve the quality of healing and prevent the likelihood of reinjury most importantly. We used the cartilage cells in a lovely horse called Rosie a while back who had a severe cartilage injury in her fetlock joint diagnosed on MRI and she is now back as a sound ridden horse! We have also recently implanted the umbilical cord type cell into a soft tissue injury of an event horse, who is still undergoing intensive rehabilitation, we will keep you posted!

Sycamore poisoning in horses

Many of you may have noticed the characteristic helicopter seeds present on sycamore trees as of late so we thought it would be a good idea to remind you about sycamore poisoning. But what exactly do we mean by the term sycamore poisoning? Keep reading to find out more!

Sycamore poisoning, also known as atypical myopathy, is a devastating, highly fatal muscle disorder that occurs following the ingestion of hypoglycin A toxin. The toxin is found in a number of plant species, the most common in the UK being the leaves, seeds and seedlings of sycamore trees hence the term sycamore poisoning.

There is sadly a 75% fatality rate with most non-survivors succumbing within 72 hours of the development of clinical signs.

Cause

The disease occurs following the ingestion of sycamore seeds or leaves in Autumn or seedlings in Spring that contain the hypoglycin A toxin. It should be noted that the toxin is not present in all sycamores. There is also speculation that toxin levels may differ at different times of year and under different climatic conditions. Cases often follow an adverse change in weather conditions such as frost or rain.

Clinical Signs

Affected horses show clinical signs of weakness, stiffness, muscle tremors, a fast (sometimes irregular) heartbeat, difficulties in breathing and dark red/brown coloured urine. Other clinical signs include depression and signs of colic. Severely affected horses become recumbent and others may be found already deceased.

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Diagnosis

Diagnosis of atypical myopathy is based on the presence of compatible clinical signs, a history of grazing pasture containing sycamore trees and physical examination and blood work findings.

Supportive blood work includes evidence of dehydration and an exponential increase in muscle enzyme values with or without increased kidney enzyme values. We are capable of running this blood work in-house with a rapid turn-around time on results.

For the definitive diagnosis, blood, with or without a urine sample, are submitted to the Royal Veterinary College for analysis. Results take a number of days to return and therefore, if a diagnosis of atypical myopathy is suspected, then the affected patient should be treated as such. Time is of the essence and rapid initiation of treatment is essential to improve prognosis.

Treatment

Suspected cases are generally hospitalised to facilitate intensive medical management. Treatment is predominantly based on supportive care including administration of large volumes of intravenous fluid therapy. As affected patients are generally quite painful, the provision of adequate pain relief is vitally important. One study has also shown the administration of vitamins to be advantageous.

Prevention

Prevention is based on preventing exposure to sycamore seedlings in Spring and seeds and leaves in Autumn. The area surrounding sycamore trees should be fenced off and the seeds and leaves collected. It is important to remember that the helicopter seeds may travel up to 200 yards. Therefore, pasture beyond the sycamore tree should be searched for seeds.

Remember not all sycamores contain the hypoglycin A toxin but prevention is better than cure.

The Royal Veterinary College (RVC) offer testing to identify plants containing the toxin. You may submit seeds, leaves and seedling directly to the RVC Comparative Neuromuscular Laboratory to determine if plants on your property contain the toxin. Test results are generally available within 2-3 weeks but can be available within 72 hours for an additional fee. If interested, please consult your veterinary surgeon for further information.

Some may ask if their horse has grazed for many years on pasture containing sycamore trees without any issues, if their horse is at risk? The answer is yes. Risk is reduced by following the steps outlined above in addition to considering laboratory analysis of the sycamores for the presence of the hypoglycin A toxin.