Julie Nuttall, Author at Oakhill Vets

TO BREED OR NOT TO BREED? (AND HOW?) IS THE QUESTION

For many of us, the thought of having our very own foal from our own mare is a recurring dream – but what does it take for that to become reality? And is it something we should be considering, for both our mare’s sake and our own?

PRE-BREEDING CONSIDERATIONS

Breeding a foal can be risky – normally, everything goes to plan, and the foal arrives safely and healthily, and mother is also well and suffers no ill effects from this. However, when it goes wrong, it can really go wrong, and in the worst-case scenario we may lose both mare and foal. Thankfully, this is rare, but it is a risk that should be seriously considered before deciding to breed.

Other considerations should include:

- Is the mare a good candidate to be bred from? Look objectively at her conformation and temperament. Often mares are put into foal due to lameness or other ridden issues, but if these are due to physical abnormalities then these may be passed on to their offspring.
- What am I looking to breed? This will influence your choice of stallion, and whether you breed at all.
- Am I in a position to have a mare and foal, both in terms of finances, and practicalities (e.g. yard set up, other youngstock etc.)?

Choosing a stallion
This is one of the fun parts! Try to choose a stallion that will complement your mare’s conformation and type. Looking at a stallion’s offspring already on the ground may give an idea of temperament.

Bear in mind health testing for certain genetic conditions – this is especially important in certain breeds. If you have any specific questions regarding these please ask one of our vets.

WHAT ARE THE DIFFERENCES BETWEEN NATURAL COVER, FRESH, CHILLED AND FROZEN AI?

Natural cover is just that – natural! This limits the choice of stallions logistically to those within a travelable distance for the mare. Many competing stallions, for example, may not offer natural cover due to the increased injury risk and the potential for it to affect their focus when competing. Some studs will cover in hand once the mare is in season, and others will allow the stallion to run with the mare for a period of time (the latter is more common in native pony types).

Fresh/chilled artificial insemination – this is where semen is collected from the stallion, and then placed either straight into the mare’s uterus (fresh) or mixed with ‘extender’ (think a little packed lunchbox of nutrients to keep the semen alive in transit) and then posted out to your mare. Chilled semen opens the options for stallions to be used from across the whole of the UK and even most of Europe. Typically chilled semen has a lifespan of around 48 hours from collection (although this will vary from stallion to stallion), so we need to time things carefully to ensure it arrives in time for the mare to be inseminated with it before she ovulates, but not so far in advance that the semen has died!

Frozen AI – this is the most tricky and time consuming, as once frozen semen has thawed it has a much shorter lifespan, and so we scan the mares ovaries much more frequently – normally every 6 hours – and then as soon as she has ovulated the semen is thawed and inseminated via a different type of AI catheter that allows the semen to be placed as close to the ovulating ovary as possible. As this technique requires much more scanning, and the access to a temperature-controlled water bath, liquid nitrogen tank etc., this is typically performed in the clinic rather than on yard. The plus points of frozen AI over chilled include an increased choice of stallions – including those who are deceased – and a lack of restriction on postage, for example over weekends/bank holidays/postal strikes (nightmare!).

THE FUTURE?

Embryo transfer is becoming more established within the UK and involves flushing an embryo from one mare and implanting it into a recipient mare. This is a useful technique for mares who are currently competing or cannot carry a foal themselves for health reasons. This is not something we currently offer at Oakhill (yet), but we can advise you on those who can help if this is something you are considering.

A newer emerging technique is one called ‘ovum pick-up’ where eggs are collected directly from the mare’s ovary, and ‘intra-cytoplasmic sperm injection’, where these eggs are injected with sperm. Once these develop into embryos they can be frozen, stored, and then placed into recipient mares when required. This technique is still in its infancy in this country but is likely to become more common in years to come.

WHAT DOES THE BREEDING PROCESS TYPICALLY ENTAIL?

If you choose to breed your mare by AI, then she will typically be scanned to assess where she is at within the oestrous cycle, and to check for any abnormalities that may reduce her ability to conceive and carry a foal. If she is not in season, then she may receive an injection to help bring her into season.

On subsequent scans, the size of any follicles on her ovaries will be measured, and her uterus assessed for oedema. Once we are happy there is a large enough follicle that looks like it will ovulate shortly, along with sufficient uterine oedema, then the semen can be ordered. In some cases, drugs to induce ovulation may be given.

As soon as the semen arrives, it is placed into the mare’s uterus, and the following day she may be scanned to check she has ovulated (if she hasn’t, it might be that more semen needs ordering!), and to check for fluid within the uterus, which can result due to the mare having an inflammatory reaction to semen/extender. If this happens, she may be ‘washed out’ with fluid, and/or antibiotics, to remove any dead semen and inflammatory fluid – but don’t worry, any swimmers that are winners will have reached the oviducts leading to the ovaries by this point and will be safe from us washing them out.

Then comes the long wait for pregnancy scanning – we typically recommend this to be performed 15/16 days after ovulation, as this enables us to check for twins. Unfortunately, twin pregnancies are very risky for mares, and so if there are two embryos, scanning at this point enables us to reduce one embryo, leaving hopefully just the one embryo. If she is in foal at this point, then we check again at 28-35 days to check that the foal is developing normally and by this point its heartbeat should be visible! Further scanning can be performed if there are any concerns after this stage.

It is important to remember that not all mares will become pregnant first time, just the same as with people, and sometimes it can take multiple attempts and further interventions and treatments may be necessary.

If you would like to discuss breeding your mare, please give us a call and ask to speak to Rob, Pete or Sarah

THE IMPORTANCE OF VETERINARY NURSES IN THE CARE OF YOUR PET

Oakhill’s team of qualified Registered Veterinary Nurses (RVNs) play a vital role in looking after your pet during their visits to us. Just like human nursing, veterinary nursing is a skilled and highly trained profession, with the patient’s welfare firmly at its heart.

They work alongside veterinary surgeons to care for sick and injured animals, ensuring the welfare, comfort and recovery of animals that have undergone trauma, surgery, or are receiving treatment for ongoing medical conditions.

WHAT DO OUR NURSES DO?

Whether your pet is visiting Oakhill to manage an ongoing condition, for routine surgery, or requires emergency care, veterinary nurses will be providing skilled nursing care throughout. While some of this work will be behind the scenes, especially if your pet is staying as an inpatient, nursing care provides an essential role in ensuring that your pet’s well-being is monitored throughout their treatment.

Here’s just some of the things Oakhill’s RVNs are responsible for:

Inpatient care – carrying out nursing care, while working with the veterinary surgeon in charge of the case. Like nurses in our NHS hospitals, they undertake a wide range of tasks such as administering medicine, managing wounds and monitoring intravenous fluids, as well as monitoring and taking care of the needs of the patient.
Diagnostic tests – most laboratory tests are performed in-house by our RVNs. Once the test is complete the findings will be relayed to the vet in charge of your pet, who will interpret the results and discuss them with you. Veterinary nurses are also trained to use a variety of diagnostic imaging tools, which can be a crucial aid to the vet while diagnosing illness or injury.
Surgical nursing and anaesthesia – RVN’s are trained to assist the veterinary surgeon both as part of the surgical team and monitor the levels of patient anaesthesia throughout the operation. This highly skilled and specialised work means they can recognise different stages of anaesthesia, along with potential problems. RVNs can also legally undertake minor surgical procedures, such as the suturing of wounds, as well as dental scaling and polishing, following assessment and removal of any damaged teeth by the vet.
Nurse clinics – just like at your GP surgery, our nurses provide regular clinics to support you with advice about a range of topics including, moving house, keeping your senior pet happy, caring for a puppy or kitten, managing chronic conditions, as well as monitoring pets with long term health conditions such as diabetes or obesity.

QUALIFICATIONS AND REGISTRATION

Veterinary nurses are trained to a high level, to enable them to work in all aspects of the practice environment, from reception through to the operating theatre. Training to become a veterinary nurse is challenging and requires lots of dedication. They must complete at least 1,800 hours of practical, hands-on experience, alongside writing assignments and sitting theory exams. This training is usually done over a period of around three years and can be either a vocational or work-based diploma via college, or a veterinary nursing degree at university.

Once qualified, RVNs are regulated by the Royal College of Veterinary Surgeons (RCVS), which means they are professionally accountable for their conduct and must undertake continuing education, known as CPD, to maintain their status.

Their registration demonstrates to employers and to pet owners alike that they are keeping their skills up to date. Just like in human nursing, some RVNs will work in general practice, while others will take on specialised roles within referral practices in larger hospitals.

Veterinary nurses carry out technical work and are skilled in undertaking a range of diagnostic tests, medical treatments, and minor surgical procedures under direction of a veterinary surgeon. They will advise on keeping pets healthy and many provide their own nursing consultations and outpatient checks. There are also certain procedures which, by law, the vet can only delegate to RVNs. This means that the more technical areas of patient care, such as administration of some medications, and minor surgeries are only delegated to those who have the skills and knowledge to carry out the procedure safely.

British standards of veterinary nurse training and regulation are among the best in the world so you can be sure that your pet is in safe hands.

ARTHRITIS IN CATS: WOULD YOU SPOT THE SIGNS?

Just like in humans, osteoarthritis is a common condition in older cats, but one that is unfortunately often overlooked. Many symptoms are dismissed as simply ‘old age’. But whilst old age is inevitable, it isn’t a disease – it doesn’t cause pain or stiffness like arthritis does!

If you find yourself describing your cat as: ‘sleeping a lot now’, ‘not going out so much these days’, ‘grumpier than they used to be’, and ‘not as keen to cuddle’, have you considered that they may have arthritis?

WHY ARE CATS UNIQUE?

As any cat owner will tell you, cats are unique, and this is true for the way they show pain too. Dogs tell you when they are in pain by limping, yelping, and making sure that you know about it! Cats stop playing, cats stop grooming, and generally retreat.

Although they don’t shout about it, if you look you will see what your cat is telling you. Consider these common ‘old age’ changes in cats, and how they might be related to underlying arthritis.

Not as playful anymore – It’s just too painful to bother.
Spending less time outside – Getting through the cat flap is quite uncomfortable and climbing that tree is unthinkable.
Matted fur along their backs – This may be because it’s too painful to contort around to groom now.
Stop sleeping on your bed – It’s too much of a stretch to jump up there now.
Sleeping all the time – It’s simple: arthritis hurts when the joints move. No moving = no pain.
Overgrown claws – Their beloved scratching post hurts to use now.
Becoming grumpy – Being picked up and cuddled up like they used to be is quite uncomfortable, so they avoid it.

There are physical signs of arthritic cats too (e.g. muscle loss, swollen joints, stiff movements), but most of the signs are behavioural changes.

WHAT IS OSTEOARTHRITIS?

Every joint in your body is covered in smooth slippery surface made of cartilage. Over time, as the joints are used and abused, this cartilage can be worn down to reveal the underlying bone – ouch!

The bone tries to repair itself, but the new bone produced only adds to the problem; bony protrusions start to cover the joint rather than the glossy smooth cartilage. A once shiny, lubricant joint surface turns into something more akin to the surface of the moon.

TREATMENT OPTIONS FOR FELINE ARTHRITIS

Arthritis is unfortunately a progressive disease that will get worse over time, as the joint damage can’t be reversed. However, there’s still lots you can do to make living with arthritis easier, and less painful for your cat.

Modifying the environment – even small adjustments around the home can make a big difference to their quality of life. Ensuring easy access to food and water (avoiding elevated surfaces), placing a step near windowsills to ease jumping, providing cosy beds, maintaining warmth (especially in colder weather when arthritis tends to worsen), and opting for litter trays with low sides all contribute to a more comfortable life.

Medication – it’s crucial to seek advice from your vet regarding the most suitable medications for your cat. Various options to manage feline arthritis are available from daily pain relief to monthly injections. Don’t ever be tempted to give any human medication to your cat – paracetamol is highly toxic to cats and just a small amount will be fatal.

Weight management – excess weight adds unnecessary strain on sore joints. Achieving and maintaining a healthy bodyweight can be challenging, particularly as cats become less active with age. Speak to us for tailored dietary advice.

Joint supplements – incorporating omega-3 oils and glucosamine supplements into the diet may offer some benefits. However, since this industry lacks regulation, it’s important to be cautious of false claims. Additionally, don’t anticipate immediate results, as supplements typically require weeks or even months to take effect.

Promoting movement – adhering to the “little and often” principle is advisable for exercising cats with arthritis. Prolonged periods of rest can lead to very stiff joints, so gently encouraging regular, low-impact movement is beneficial.

SUMMARY

Cats can live a long time with arthritis, as long as their quality of life remains good. Recognising the signs and starting treatment early will keep them as comfortable as possible for as long as possible.

So, if you think your cat is getting old and lazy, consider that arthritis may be lurking, and speak to us!

ALTERNATIVE STRATEGIES FOR WORM CONTROL

Resistance to commonly used wormers in sheep has been reported since the 1980s but more recently resistant worms have been found on up to 100% of farms. Therefore, it is increasingly important to change how we use wormers to avoid selecting for resistance and to ensure that we continue to have these tools for the future. The recent testing requirements as part of the Animal Health and Welfare Pathway encourage farmers to identify resistance on their farm and therefore begin to understand how well their worming strategies are working. Following guidance from SCOPS (Sustainable Control of Parasites in Sheep) is important to make sure wormers are being used appropriately (see below); but what other options are there for worm control that don’t involve use of wormers?

There are 3 areas to consider when trying to reduce dependence on wormers: decreasing exposure to worms, increasing sheep resistance to infection and reducing the impact that infection has….

DECREASING EXPOSURE TO WORMS

Grazing management
Pasture can be classified as high or low risk in terms of worm burden based on previous grazing history (for example pasture previously grazed by lambs will be higher risk) and weather information. Risk can be reduced through use of rotational systems with cattle and hay/silage production. Utilise parasite forecasts to know when high risk periods are likely to be. Additionally, most worm larvae are found close to the ground so avoid overgrazing pasture.
Bioactive forages
Grazing certain plants such as chicory, birdsfoot trefoil, sulla and sainfoin have been associated with lower worm burdens in sheep. The reason for this is not fully known but may be due to high tannin levels in these plants or higher protein levels.
Reducing stocking density
Fewer sheep result in lower worm egg production and therefore reduced pasture contamination.
Management of lambs
Housing lambs for finishing means they are no longer exposed to worm eggs on pasture. The number of eggs on pasture increases through the grazing season, so aiming to grow lambs fast and get them off farm early means they are exposed to lower burdens.

INCREASING SHEEP RESISTANCE TO INFECTION

Nutrition
Ensuring adequate body condition will mean that sheep have the energy required to build an immune response against worms. Additionally, ensure there are no deficiencies such as cobalt or copper as this can reduce the immune response. Increasing protein levels in ewe diets around lambing can reduce the shedding of eggs and therefore pasture contamination for lambs.
Breeding resistant sheep
Some sheep seem to build stronger immune responses against worms and therefore have lower worm egg counts. Breeding from these sheep can improve the flock’s overall resistance. Individual worm egg counts at 21 weeks old has been shown to be a predictor of worm egg output in first lambing and lactation. Antibody levels in blood can also be used as a predictive value, and this can be used alongside WECs to select parasite resistant rams.

REDUCING IMPACT OF INFECTION ON SHEEP

Breeding tolerant sheep
Some sheep maintain high levels of production despite high worm burdens. Therefore, scoring sheep based on growth rates or dag scores may be useful to determine which animals should be bred from.

SCOPS PRINCIPLES

Use anthelmintics only when necessary: utilise worm egg counts throughout the grazing season prior to treatment
Administer effectively: dose to the heaviest animal in the group, store products correctly and maintain dosing equipment
Preserve susceptible worms: leave 10% of lambs untreated (for example well grown lambs with no scour are unlikely to require dosing), and avoid ‘dose and move’ strategies
Quarantine bought in stock: treat with an effective wormer and then delay turnout for 48 hours, quarantine from main flock for 28 days
Select the appropriate anthelmintic: test for resistance so you know which wormers are effective on your farm and avoid using combination products unless necessary

COW TRACKS

With turnout time upon us it is a good time to have a look at your cow tracks and ensure that they are in good repair to benefit both you and your cows.

Advantages of a cow track

A good cow track will ensure that your herd can move safely around your farm as well as improving cow flow, reducing lameness caused by claw damage, reducing field poaching, and improving cow cleanliness and udder hygiene. Effective cow tracks can even extend your grazing season by providing better field access as well as saving you money on treatments arising from issues with foot and udder health.

THE IDEAL COW TRACK

When installing or re-designing a cow track it is important to take into consideration cow comfort. The ideal cow track will have the below features:

Width: Dependant on your herd size the minimum width of the surfaced track should be between 4 metres (for herds of 200 cows) and 7 metres (for herds of 500 cows).
Layout: The track should run the shortest route from A to B. Not only will this save on track materials, but also the energy used by the cows that can be available for milk production instead. Avoid sharp turns, very steep sections (gradients ideal no more than 8%), and bottlenecks.
Surface: Should be free draining and quick drying, free of sharp grit and large stones as well as any material that could get trapped between claws. It should have good underfoot grip but not be overly abrasive. Ideally it should be cushioned for cow comfort. Some examples of cow track materials include oolitic limestone, sandstone, chalk, woodchips, or crushed stone or rubble stabilised with cement.

HOW TO MOVE YOUR COWS ON THE TRACK

Installing an effective track is vital, but it is just as important to keep in mind how cows want to move on a cow track. Cows need space to move their heads freely to allow them to place their feet safely and avoid more dominant cows, so ensure you give your cows space and do not force them to compact together.

As well as space, they also need time to rearrange themselves once they enter the parlour. The order they walk along the track is not necessarily the order in which they are milked. Dominant cows walk at the front of the herd and will not be over-taken by less dominant members of the herd, this means animals at the back of the group are under more pressure and tend to bunch at the back so avoid putting pressure on cows at the rear of the herd. Cows want to move forwards, only less dominant cows and heifers reverse when under pressure, you can avoid this backwards movement by increasing the distance between the herdsman and the herd when on the track.

DON’T FORGET THE NECESSARY PERMISSIONS!

If your track runs near a watercourse, and depending which material you choose, you may need to seek advice from the Environment Agency or Internal Drainage Board. Permissions from the landowner and local authority should be sought. Areas of historical significance or wildlife interest should be avoided.

CLOSTRIDIAL DISEASES

Clostridia are a group of bacteria that are commonly found in soil and in the digestive tracts of animals. They can produce toxins that cause a variety of diseases in farmed animals, and which can lead to sudden death in many cases. The bacteria can survive as spores in the environment for a long time and therefore preventing exposure is usually not feasible, and treatment of affected animals is typically unsuccessful. However, vaccines are available which provide protection against the toxins.

Clostridial vaccines generally require a primary course of 2 doses followed by an annual booster. For breeding females this booster should be in late pregnancy to provide protection for their offspring. Lambs and suckler calves will then need vaccination when the colostral protection runs out after 12 weeks.

Black Leg

Clostridial spores are ingested and travel from the gut to the muscle through the blood. Subsequent damage to the muscle (for example following trauma or excess exercise) can lead to toxin production. In sheep there is often a history of wounds, for example following shearing or tail docking. The toxins damage the muscle and spread in the blood leading to fever, inappetence and rapid death. Affected muscles are often massively swollen and may feel crackly when touched. Cases are commonly seen soon after turnout to new pasture and animals in good condition may be more likely to be affected.

Tetanus

The bacteria causing tetanus usually to enter the body through contaminated wounds, such as following tail docking, dehorning or castration. They then produce a toxin which attacks the nervous system, leading to rigid paralysis. Clinical signs include a raised tail, extended neck, lock jaw, difficulty walking, and bloat followed by death.

Botulism

Botulism is caused by direct ingestion of clostridial toxins which are usually associated with bird carcasses or poultry manure in feed. The toxins affect the nervous system leading to weakness which may progress to recumbency and death. In some cases, affected animals may recover, however often euthanasia on welfare grounds is required. Protection against botulism is not provided by multivalent clostridial vaccines and therefore a separate vaccine is needed for high-risk farms.

Pulpy kidney

Pulpy Kidney disease is frequently reported to be in the top 3 causes of lamb death. Lambs are found dead with no clinical signs. Vaccination of dams with a booster in late pregnancy provides protection for young lambs, and older lambs can also be vaccinated to provide ongoing protection.

Lamb dysentery

Lamb dysentery is another common cause of sudden death in lambs that can be prevented through vaccination with clostridial vaccines.

Black disease

In late summer/early autumn migration of immature fluke through the livers of sheep and cattle can trigger clostridial toxin production and lead to sudden death. Prevention relies upon clostridial vaccination and appropriate fluke control.

Other clostridial diseases such as big head in rams and other enterotoxaemias cause disease in a similar way to those mentioned above. Since all these diseases will often cause sudden death as the first clinical sign, and the bacteria are common in soil, vaccination is the only way to prevent losses. If one cow is saved every 16 years in a 100-cow herd the vaccine will have paid for itself!

GETTING ACTIVE IN THE GREAT OUTDOORS

As the weather gets warmer and the days get longer, it is important for us to consider how to keep our pets active and healthy. Read on to find out the best ways to keep your pets active and healthy, prepare for outdoor activities, and feed active animals.

After a long, cold and wet winter, with limited opportunities for outdoor adventures, it is important that you gradually increase your pet’s outdoor activity. This is to avoid injuries and to allow their bodies to adapt. Start off slow and steady. If your pet is not used to being exercised, they will need to start off with short walks and gradually increase the duration and intensity as they become more capable.

WAYS TO GET ACTIVE

Play with your pets – to encourage your pet to be more active outside, you can play games with them. Frisbee and fetch are brilliant games to provide mental stimulation and improve your pet’s fitness by raising their heart rate and getting them moving. It is also a good way to bond with your pet.

Swimming – this is a perfect low- impact activity that can get your pet moving. Dogs especially loves swimming, and it is something that can be enjoyed by all ages and fitness levels. Ensure your pet is up to date with their vaccinations to protect them from diseases such as Leptospira. This is a potentially fatal infection that can be spread by rat urine. It can be found in water such as canals. Ensure your dog is not swimming in areas where there is blue-green algae as this is toxic to dogs.

Agility training – another brilliant way to keep your pet active and mentally stimulate them at the same time is agility training. This is a fun and challenging way to develop your pet’s co-ordination and fitness. If your pet has been well socialised, they may benefit from meeting other pets in the park. Here they can let off some steam and burn calories with another furry friend.

MAKING SURE IT’S ENJOYABLE

Take notice of the weather – as the weather starts getting warmer, it is very important to always have water available and offer it to your pet at regular intervals. Provide shade for your pet and let them rest as much as they need. Always take the necessary precautions in the heat.

Beware of parasites – always check your pet for parasites such as ticks and fleas after they have been exploring outside. We will advise you on suitable preventive parasites medicine for your pet depending on their lifestyle. Ticks can carry Lyme disease, which can affect humans, so it is in our best interest to ensure they are free from parasites.

FEEDING ACTIVE ANIMALS

It is so important to provide your pet with good quality food that contains the correct balance of all the essential nutrients they need to thrive. The food must be appropriate for their age and activity level. You can add supplements to your pet’s diet for optimum performance. For example, joint supplements containing glucosamine and chondroitin can aid in keeping joints healthy.

JUMP TO IT – PREVENTING PARASITE PROBLEMS

Parasites can cause serious problems for our pets… and for the humans that interact with them! So, it’s vital to be aware of them and learn how you can keep your pet protected against these pesky parasites.

Individual animals can face varying degrees of risk from different parasites, underscoring the importance of discussing their risk with us. We can provide personalised advice on parasite prevention, tailored to your pet’s specific needs, considering factors such as species, age, lifestyle, and geographical location.

PRESCRIPTION MEDICINES VERSUS OVER-THE-COUNTER PARASITE PRODUCTS

Numerous options are available for parasite prevention, including spot-on solutions applied to the back of your pet’s neck, tablets which are given orally, and impregnated collars. Opting for veterinary prescription medicines is advisable, rather than over-the-counter products. This is because they have been rigorously tested to ensure that they work effectively and that they are safe for your pet.

Additionally, several preventive measures can be taken to minimise your pet’s risk of parasite infestation, such as:

maintaining good hygiene practices (e.g., washing hands, disinfecting food bowls)
refraining from feeding uncooked meat or offal
consistently cleaning up after your dog.

Preventing parasite issues is far simpler than treating them, and the good news is, our 365 Care Plan has made this super easy!

TACKLING TICKS

Ticks are becoming more common in the UK and can transmit diseases such as Lyme disease, which can affect dogs and cats, as well as humans. It is a very serious illness and be fatal in some cases.

You should always remove ticks if they are attached to your pet, but never pull them straight out, as this runs the risk of the head being left behind in your pet’s skin. Instead, you can remove them by gently twisting them until they release. You can buy special tick removers to assist you with this, or one of our vet nurses can safely remove them for you.

If your pet frequently visits areas where they are picking up ticks, then you need to consider preventive treatment for them.

FIGHTING FLEAS

Fleas are tiny wingless insects which feed on the bloods of animals, including pets and wildlife. They are one of the most irritating and itchy parasites for your pet and can live on dogs, cats They and even rabbits. While they can’t live on humans, their bites can cause itching and unsightly marks. Flea

As they reproduce very quickly, they can soon have produced hundreds of tiny eggs, which rapidly cause an infestation in the house. Eggs have remarkable resilience, surviving for months in the environment, leading to prolonged infestations that require considerable effort and expense to eradicate. Anyone who has had this problem knows how difficult this can be to clear!

Preventing these unwelcome intruders is significantly simpler than dealing with an established infestation.

MANAGING MITES

Mites can infest the skin and ears of dogs, cats, rabbits, and other rodents, which can be very itchy and uncomfortable. Infestations can cause hair loss, scratching and red or dry and scurfy skin. There are many different types of mites, but they can easily be prevented with treatments from us.

WAR ON WORMS

Roundworms – these parasites are prevalent in both dogs and cats. Pets can contract them by sniffing or licking contaminated faeces from other animals, or by consuming infected carcasses. Roundworms are often transmitted to puppies and kittens from their mother before birth and can also be passed through the mother’s milk. Severe infestations can lead to stunted growth, vomiting, and diarrhoea, making it essential to regularly deworm pregnant females, puppies, and kittens.

Certain types of roundworms such as Toxocara canis can pose a serious risk to humans – it is known to cause symptoms such as blindness and seizures. Children are most at risk because they are more likely to play in areas where dogs have toileted and put their fingers in their mouths. Being a responsible pet owner means that you should regularly worm your dog and always pickup their faeces.

Tapeworm – transmitted when dogs and cats eat unprocessed raw food, offal, or other infected animal carcasses. Tapeworm can also be spread via fleas, with dogs and cats becoming infected when they ingest fleas while grooming or scratching. This is another very good reason to use a flea- prevention treatment!

Lungworm – dogs can contract lungworm by consuming infected slugs or snails, or their slime, which can lead to severe health issues like breathing problems, blood clotting disorders, and potentially fatal outcomes. This condition can be effectively prevented through regular administration of a monthly tablet or spot-on treatment. Additionally, minimizing the risk of exposure to infected creatures can be achieved by avoiding leaving toys or bowls outside overnight, as they may attract slugs or snails.

SPRING DANGERS PET OWNERS NEED TO BE AWARE OF!

Finally, spring is in the air… and there’s no better feeling after a long, cold, dark, and very wet winter. While the warmer weather signals time for fun outdoor activities – alfresco dining, camping and open water swimming to name a few – it can bring with it a new set of hazards for our pets. From blooming flowers to searing heat, and even your favourite treats, read on to learn more about the common spring dangers that can affect our furry (and not so furry!) friends.

TOXIC TREATS

With spring comes Easter, and all the delicious treats we love to devour. Most people are aware that chocolate is harmful to dogs, but did you know that cats, rabbits, rats and guinea pigs are also at risk?

Chocolate contains high levels of caffeine and a compound called theobromine that causes gastrointestinal upset, tremors, and even seizures. Hot cross buns are also a surprising hazard as the raisins and sultanas are highly toxic. Make sure Easter treats are hidden away from curious creatures and call us if you suspect you pet has eaten anything they shouldn’t.

We all love having the opportunity to cook outside during the (few) warmer months, and it is so tempting to throw the dog a sausage while barbequing…but did you know that BBQ scraps are unsafe for your pets? Cooked bones, pork, ham, chicken skin, and meaty skewers are all delicious, but hazardous to our pets. Cooked bones can easily become lodged in the gut, leading to life-threatening obstruction and fatty meats can cause vomiting, diarrhoea, or pancreatitis.

GROWING GARDENS

Spring is the perfect time for getting busy in the garden, but many plants and chemicals can be dangerous for your pet. Toxic flowers include tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, and crocuses. All parts of the plant are harmful when ingested – and the bulbs contain higher concentrations. Cats are also extremely sensitive to the Lilium family, and any ingestion can cause fatal kidney disease. It is best to leave lily flowers out of our home and garden if you have any feline friends.

Other common garden hazards include fertilisers and weed chemicals. Store these toxins securely, and if used in your garden, make sure they are dug deep into the soil, then block access to your pets, including rabbits and guinea pigs. Snail or slug pallets are also highly dangerous, and poisoning is common, especially in dogs – they can cause tremors and seizures and can be fatal to all species.

PESKY PESTS

During spring, biting bugs start to breed! Ticks, fleas, and mites all party hard in the springtime and can cause bites and allergic reactions. Dogs, cats, rabbits, and guinea pigs should be treated with parasite prevention. Don’t forget your chickens too, as red mites can be nuisance at this time of year.

Increased fly activity can cause trouble for rabbits and other small furries that live outside. Flies can lay eggs in the warm wet areas around the tail, or open wounds, and maggots will emerge, leading to a nasty condition called flystrike. Keep your pet’s environment clean and dry, regularly remove any droppings and treat all wounds quickly.

As with all parasites, prevention is better than cure – and early measures should be taken to protect your furry friends from biting bugs.

Last, but certainly not least, comes snakes. Springtime signals the end of winter hibernation and as the ground warms up our scaly friends become active.

There are three types of snakes in the UK: grass snakes, smooth snakes, and adders. The adder is the only venomous species: grass snakes and smooth snakes aren’t venomous and don’t tend to bite.

Adders tend to keep themselves to themselves and don’t bite unless they are scared. Unfortunately, dogs tend to approach them without fear, startle them and get bitten! If your dog has bitten by an adder, their symptoms will depend on where the bite is, and where the venom spreads to. If the venom stays in the tissues around the bite, it will cause pain and swelling, but if it spreads further and gets into the bloodstream, it can cause much more serious problems such as damage to the liver, kidneys, heart, and nervous system.

If you suspect your pet has been bitten, seek immediate veterinary help.

PROTECTING YOUR PET THE EASY WAY…

Spring is an exciting time and with some careful planning it can be full of joy and adventure for the whole family. Prevention is always best and protecting your pet is easy with our 365 Care Plan.

Explore 365 Care Plan

FASCINATING FELINES

Domestic cats (Felis catus) are small carnivorous members of the family Felidae — the only member of that family that has deigned to join humans in domesticated bliss!

For millennia, cats have coexisted with humans. They likely began frequenting human grain stores, attracted by mice and other vermin, and eventually spread around the world as sailors brought them aboard ships.

Today, cats still help humans control vermin and provide companionship. Over the past few centuries, humans have selectively bred cats to exhibit specific traits, such as hairlessness, resulting in the creation of stablishing dozens of cat breeds. With their charming mix of aloofness and goofiness, cats amuse and fascinate us in equal measure.

SUPERNATURAL INTELLIGENCE?

Many people dismiss a cat’s uncanny knowing as superstition or myth, but the ancient Egyptians revered cats as sacred animals, believing them to have magical powers. In those times, cats were treated with the utmost care and respect as representatives of the goddess Bastet.

Modern-day moggies seem to channel this god-like quality with ease, along with their reputed sixth sense. Anyone who lives with a cat has a tale to tell of telepathy, clairvoyance, or mystic encounters. There are many reported instances where cats have apparently predicted events before they happened, such as sensing when their owners are about to come home or anticipating a change in their routine.

Cats have been observed to drastically alter their behaviour prior to natural disasters such as lightning, volcanic activity, earthquakes, tsunamis, and landslides. Some cats have even alerted their owners to an impending epileptic seizure, hypoglycaemic attack, or pre-cancerous state.

A cat’s extraordinary senses can explain some of these seemingly psychic acts. They can pick up on subtle changes in body language and scent, detect changes in air pressure, see and hear beyond our limited range and react to stimuli we don’t even recognise. Their long, stiff hairs (or vibrissae) – located on either side of the nose, above the eyes, and on the chin -are super- sensitive helping them to navigate their surroundings and detect changes in their environment. But a lot of what they do is still wonderfully inexplicable.

When a cat stares fixedly into space and then suddenly pounces into action, has he seen a ghost or is he just messing with us?

SENSE-ATIONAL SENSES

SIGHT

Cats have eyes that are specifically adapted for hunting in low-light conditions, which is why they are often considered to be crepuscular animals (more active during twilight). Their pupils can dilate much larger than human pupils, allowing more light to enter the eye. They have a reflective layer at the back of their eyes called the tapetum lucidum, which amplifies available light, enhancing their ability to see in the dark.

Also, cats have a larger number of rod cells in their retina, which are responsible for detecting light and motion. This gives them incredible visual acuity and allows them to track the movement of prey with outstanding speed and accuracy.

SMELL AND TASTE

A cat’s sense of smell is up to 14 times more powerful than our own, thanks to the presence of a specialised organ called the Jacobson’s organ (or vomeronasal organ). It is in the roof of the mouth and is responsible for detecting pheromones and other chemical signals that can’t be detected by a cat’s regular olfactory system.

When a cat detects these chemical signals, they will often display the Flehmen response – curling back their upper lip to draw the odour directly into the Jacobson’s organ for more detailed analysis. With such a finely- tuned nose, its no wonder cats can detect even the faintest whiff of their favourite food!

HEARING

It’s not just cat’s vision that’s impressive – they also have a phenomenal sense of hearing. Their ears can swivel independently of each other to pinpoint the source of a sound with amazing accuracy. Their ears are so sensitive that they can hear a grasshopper rustling in the leaves from several metres away and can even hear the click of a butterfly’s wings!

TOUCH

Cats use their sense of touch in all sorts of ways, from grooming themselves and each other to communicating with other cats. Their paw pads are covered in tiny receptors called mechanoreceptors that help them feel texture, temperature, and pressure. This is important for gripping surfaces, detecting prey, and communicating with other cats through physical contact.

FLEXIBLE FELINES

Arthritis is the bane of any golden oldie – whether human or animal – and especially for a former ninja. Cats have a flexible spine, allowing them to contort their bodies in ways impossible for other animals. Combined with powerful leg muscles, this makes them exceptionally agile climbers and acrobats with lightning- fast reflexes. They can jump several times their own height, run at speeds up to 48km/hr and change direction quickly and effortlessly.

Most cat lovers freely admit to being willing slaves to their pets, so perhaps their greatest talent is the way cats have managed to domesticate humans with their playful, affectionate, independent, and quirky personalities. Let’s take a moment to appreciate just how extraordinary these animals truly are!