Julie Nuttall, Author at Oakhill Vets

CASE STUDY: ELECTRICAL CARDIOVERSION (TVEC)

CASE STUDY: TILLY’S ELECTRICAL CARDIOVERSION (TVEC)

Tilly was seen by our vet Kai during a routine yard visit for her annual vaccination. During this visit it was noted that Tilly had a very irregular heart rhythm. Tilly was consequently bought to our clinic for further investigations including blood tests and an ECG to measure the electrical activity of the heart.

The ECG showed Tilly had a condition called atrial fibrillation. This is where the upper chambers of the heart (the atrium) beat abnormally fast and erratically. You can observe from the ECG traces how Tilly’s heart compares to that of a normal horse (Figure 1).

Atrial fibrillation can cause symptoms including poor performance, exercise intolerance, weakness and collapse. Amazingly, in Tilly’s case she had none of these symptoms at the time, so it was very fortunate we picked up the abnormality early!

ELECTRICAL CARDIOVERSION (TVEC)

Treatment for this condition can include medical therapy or the more preferred treatment choice of electrical cardioversion (TVEC), a procedure performed under a short general anaesthetic that converts the atrial fibrillation to a normal heart rhythm.

We worked alongside medicine specialists Mark Bowen and Gayle Hallowell to perform the procedure at our clinic. Tilly’s arrhythmia was treated the using the TVEC procedure, and we were all delighted when her heart converted to a normal rhythm on the first attempt.

TILLY

Tilly recovered wonderfully from the procedure and was able to return home the next day. During a recent visit, Kai performed a follow-up auscultation and confirmed that Tilly’s heart rhythm remains perfectly normal after treatment! She is now back out and about enjoying her hacking, fun rides and even the odd trip to the gallops!

Thank you to Tilly’s owner who has been wonderful throughout and for her generosity in allowing us to share her story.

EQUINE SPINAL PAIN UK SPECIALISTS

EQUINE SPINAL PAIN UK SPECIALISTS

Is your horse an absolute dream in-hand or on the lunge? Then as soon as the tack comes out, you see it in their eyes and off to the back of the stable they go!!
Do they buck when you sit to ask for canter?
Do they periodically shoot off under saddle which is pretty damn terrifying?
Do they plant their feet? Refuse to go forwards and vocalise their distaste when you squeeze with your leg?
Every time your physiotherapist visits, do they say that your horse is sore through his/her spine, but you’ve had your saddle checked and that is fine??

These amongst many other signs could indicate that your horse has pain coming from the spine. This can be from the underlying bone structures, nerve pain or pain coming from the many muscles and ligaments which interact with the spinal column. This includes pain coming from the sacrum, pelvis and sacroiliac joints too!

These cases can be extremely frustrating for you as an owner to overcome. However, we deal with these cases every, single day. We have developed a thorough, systematic approach to the investigation of these cases, so that no stone is left unturned.

Spinal imaging is performed through a combination of X-ray and ultrasonography assessments. From an X-ray perspective, due to the size of the horse, a lot of powerful radiation is required which comes from a large X-ray machine in a controlled setting! These are not images that can ever (or should ever) be obtained in a yard situation, it’s simply not possible!

To visualise the soft tissue attachments of the pelvis and spine you also need powerful ultrasound machines that have a lower frequency and a specialised probe very different from a musculoskeletal ultrasound machine. The soundwaves need to penetrate much deeper tissues without losing detail and believe me these machines are very expensive and must be kept within a clinic setting.

At Oakhill Equine Vets, we can confidently boast that we have the best imaging equipment for visualising pathology of the equine spine. We also have an arena to observe the horse ridden, with or without a rider dummy on board to help us understand the kind of symptoms your horse is displaying without putting you or anyone else in a potentially dangerous situation.

Once the problem has been identified, then we can create an appropriate, specific therapeutic approach. This may consist of conservative management through a combination of physiotherapy, injectable or anti-inflammatory medication, acupuncture with Equine Director Rosie and hydrotherapy. In the unlikely event that surgery is required you can be safe in the knowledge that we have two European Specialist surgeons on hand to perform the latest surgical techniques proven to help relieve the symptoms of spinal pain in the horse. The most common techniques are interspinous ligament desmotomy (ligament snipping) and dorsal wedge ostectomies (bone shaving). Our surgeons have all of the latest knowledge to be able to discuss these options with you depending on what your horse needs.

We are proud of the fact that we can perform all investigations and start treatment in your horse within a few days of your horse’s arrival at our clinic in Goosnargh, no waiting around for test results or for the next steps to take place. We can do it all and do it all well!!

We have no preference as to whether your horse holds an insurance policy or not, we treat all horses exactly the same. There is transparency with costings throughout regardless of your insurance status. If your horse is insured, our insurance team are on hand to make the process as stress-free as possible for you.

If you simply want to start the dialogue with regards to how we may be able to help you and your horse, just give our team a call and ask to speak to one of our spinal experts.

BOO’S FETLOCK INJURY AND LIFE-SAVING SURGERY

BOO’S FETLOCK INJURY AND LIFE-SAVING SURGERY

Several months ago equine vet Jess was called out to see one of the worst fetlock injuries we as a practice have ever seen. Poor ‘Boo’ had somehow managed to do this to herself in the field, causing such a deep wound to her left fore fetlock that the joint capsule was exposed leading to a septic joint. She had also damaged some of the supporting ligaments nearby.

Her lovely owners were distraught and keen for us to do whatever we could to help Boo and give her a chance of surviving despite the odds not being in her favour. She was admitted to our clinic for further assessment of the joint and to perform life- saving surgery under general anaesthesia. Rosie, one of European Specialists in Equine Surgery, had her work cut out but as you can from the final photo below, see she did an amazing job! Over several hours she was able to flush the infected joint with many litres of fluid and somehow suture all the tissues back together.

Our next challenge was to immobilise Boo’s limb to support the wound and sutures following surgery and give her the best chance of healing. This was particularly important during the recovery phase of her general anaesthetic where she needed to be able to stand without damaging the wound. The decision was made to place a cast on her lower limb whilst she was still in the operating theatre, preventing her flexing the limb and weakening the sutures.

Boo recovered uneventfully from her surgery and general anaesthetic. Post-operatively, Boo had several casts placed to keep her limb as still as possible. Cast removal followed 2-weeks post-operatively and after this Boo’s distal limb was placed in a 2-layer bandage. After each bandage change, we were all quietly optimistic as her wound was holding together well and Boo remained comfortable.

We were absolutely thrilled that after 5-weeks Boo had made a complete recovery and was able to go back out in the field with her friends. This was down to the commitment of Boo’s wonderful owners supported by our veterinary team. Thank you so much to Boo’s owners for allowing us to share her story.

CHRONIC PROGRESSIVE LYMPHOEDEMA (CPL)

CHRONIC PROGRESSIVE LYMPHOEDEMA (CPL)

CPL is a condition which we are seeing with increasing frequency in our ‘hairy’ population – draft breeds, cobs and certain natives. It was only relatively recently (2003) recognised as a specific, stand-alone condition, and it is still not fully understood, but here is what we know so far.

As the name suggests, this is a long term (‘chronic’) condition which progresses over time, resulting in build-up of lymphatic fluid within the tissues (‘lymphoedema’) of the lower limbs.
Longstanding lymphoedema results in inflammation, tissue fibrosis and changes in the elastin fibres in the affected areas, resulting in ongoing reduced ability for the lymphatic fluids to drain from these areas – so you get a vicious cycle of fluid build-up.
Affected horses develop ‘rolls’ or ‘nodules’ of thickened skin – in more severely affected cases these can be seen despite the feathering, but in milder/early stage cases they might not be obvious, and may only be picked up by palpation of the limbs.
There will also be increased exudate (the ooze that comes from the skin), crusts, hyperkeratosis, and thickening of the skin layers.
Cases range from only mildly affected (where you may need to get ‘hands on’ to diagnose by palpation) to severely affected (thickened rolls around the whole circumference of the limb, potentially extending further up the limb to the hocks or knees).

TREATMENT

Unfortunately, CPL is a lifelong condition for which there is no cure; instead, management is focused around four areas, to try and slow down the progression and reduce symptoms.

Lymphatic drainage – movement is really important! Studies show that horses who have less movement are more likely to be severely affected than those used for riding/working. Muscular activity acts as a pump for the lymphatic vessels. There are also massage techniques that can be used, and in some cases compressive bandaging has been used – but the latter is tricky to perform correctly, and the risk of bandage sores is high.
Skin hygiene – secondary bacterial skin infections are common in these cases, due to the increased skin exudate and thickening. Clipping is strongly advised to allow access to the skin, and regular cleaning/washing of the limbs in suitable shampoos/solutions, and application of topical antibacterials. Also – good stable hygiene is important!
Ectoparasite control – whilst feather mites are not the sole cause of CPL, they can make things worse by causing further irritation and inflammation. In severe cases where there are thick crusts, topical mite treatments applied after cleaning of the limbs may be recommended over injectable treatment, as the mites may be ‘hidden’ within the thick crusts and not accessible by an injected treatment. Maggots (‘flystrike’) are also possible in some cases.
Diet – higher starch/sugar diets are linked to higher insulin levels, and in turn higher levels of inflammatory cytokines within the blood stream – this can promote inflammation within the lower limbs. Therefore, a low sugar diet is recommended in these horses, and weight loss where appropriate.

Some horses with CPL may benefit from long term pain relief, to promote movement and reduce inflammation in the affected areas.

It is believed that there is likely to be a genetic link with CPL, which is why some breeds are much more likely to be affected than others, and why some individual horses will suffer from CPL and others not, despite the same management. Unfortunately, this link is not proven yet but is an ongoing area of research. We would recommend careful consideration before breeding from a horse affected with CPL however, due to this possibility.

PET OBESITY: A GROWING NATIONAL CONCERN

Pet obesity has been on the rise for over a decade, and in the UK, it has now reached epidemic proportions. As veterinarians, we urge pet owners to take excessive weight gain and obesity in pets seriously. This growing issue is not just cosmetic—it’s a critical welfare concern. Obesity can shorten your pet’s life, increase the likelihood of disease, and impair their ability to enjoy everyday activities like exercise.

The health risks of pet obesity
Obesity in pets can lead to serious health complications or worsen existing conditions, drastically affecting both their quality and length of life. Some of the most common health risks include:

Diabetes
Heart disease
Respiratory problems
High blood pressure (hypertension)
Certain cancers
Osteoarthritis and joint degeneration
Bladder stones

Additionally, obesity can sometimes signal underlying medical issues such as hypothyroidism (underactive thyroid) or Cushing’s disease (overactive adrenal glands).

Is your pet at risk?

Certain factors can increase your pet’s likelihood of becoming obese. In dogs, these risk factors include:

Breed: Some breeds are genetically predisposed to weight gain.
Age: Obesity becomes more common with age.
Neutering: Neutered pets may gain weight more easily if their diet isn’t carefully managed.
Sex: Female dogs, especially older ones, are more prone to obesity.

Other pets, including cats, share similar risk factors.

Recognising obesity in your pet

Obesity occurs when excess body fat negatively impacts your pet’s health and quality of life. Pets are considered overweight if they weigh 10–20% above their ideal weight and obese if they exceed their ideal weight by 20% or more.

Since weight gain often happens gradually, it can be difficult for owners to notice. However, early recognition can prevent severe obesity and related health issues.

To assess your pet at home, look for the following signs:

Ribs: Can you feel them? If not, your pet may have excess fat.
Spine: A noticeable “fat pad” might cover their back.
Tummy: A sagging, bulging belly that wobbles when they move is a key indicator.
Face, legs, and neck: Fat pads in these areas are common in obese pets.

If you suspect your pet may be overweight, book onto a FREE weight clinic with one of our RVNs. On your first visit to the weight clinic, your pet will be weighed and their body condition assessed. We will also discuss your pet’s current diet, treats and exercise levels. From this information an initial target will be created, which may change throughout the journey following regular assessments. An initial easy-to-follow feeding and exercise plan will be created for your pet using the information obtained. Don’t worry, treats can still be worked into this plan!

By addressing pet obesity, you’re not just helping your furry friend live longer—you’re giving them the chance to live a happier, more active life.

REFER A FRIEND

Love what we do? Share the love with your friends and earn £20 credit! If you already have a horse registered with us, you can refer as many friends or family members as you like to be rewarded.

Download vouchers

REFER A FRIEND AND BE REWARDED

When you refer a new client to Oakhill Equine Vets, you’ll get £20 credit on your account when they’ve had their first visit…and they’ll get £20 off their first bill. It’s our way of saying thanks for spreading the word.

There’s no limit to how many new clients you can refer to us, so the rewards are endless too!

REFERRING IS AS EASY AS 1,2,3! HOW DOES IT WORK?

Download and print the refer a friend voucher, complete your details and pass it to a friend who would like to register with us.
Your friend registers with us (online, in branch or by phone).
At their first visit they present the voucher to the vet, then £20 credit will be added to your account and your friend’s account.

REFER A FRIEND TERMS AND CONDITIONS

“We” or “Us” means Oakhill Equine Vets. Registered in England and Wales, registered number 08379696. Registered Office: Oakhill Veterinary Centre Limited, Langley Lane, Goosnargh, Preston, PR3 2JQ.
“Referrer” means a client who is registered with us, with a horse who we have seen in the last 2 years.
“Friend” means the person the Referrer has recommended Oakhill Equine Vets to.
The Referrer must pass on to the Friend, their horse’s name, surname and postcode before the Friend registers.
The Friend must be a new client to us, not an active account.
The registration must be made either in branch, online, or by phone.
The Friend must be aged 18 or over to register with us.
We will issue a £20 credit to the Referrer and to the Friend, when the Friend has had their first visit with us and presented the voucher.
No credit will be issued if a Referrer retrospectively contacts us saying they know someone who has already registered with us, and they only did so because of a recommendation by them.
This promotion can be withdrawn by us, at any time.
We may cancel the Refer a Friend scheme should we discover, or have a reasonable suspicion to believe, that the terms of the scheme are being abused.
The Refer a Friend scheme is not open to employees or contractors of Oakhill Veterinary Centre Limited.
Referees will not be rewarded where a Friend resides in the same household as the Referee.

SILVER CAT FRIENDLY STATUS FOR LYTHAM ROAD

Taking your cat to the vet can be a stressful experience, both for your feline friend and for you as their caregiver. Cats are often delicate and shy creatures that thrive in quiet, familiar environments. As territorial animals, they can feel unsafe in unfamiliar settings, which leads to stress, anxiety, and fear. New sights, sounds, and particularly smells can overwhelm them, making trips to the vet even more challenging.

Cats can’t understand that a visit to the vet is for their own well-being, and you can’t reassure them that everything will be fine. So, when it’s time to leave the safety of home for a check-up, test, or procedure, it may seem like a daunting task – especially if you know your cat doesn’t enjoy the experience.

The process can be equally nerve-wracking for you. Trying to coax an uncooperative cat into the carrier, with their legs stretched out in protest, is never easy. Their distressed meowing during the journey can make you feel bad, and if they’re particularly anxious, you may even find vomit or faeces in the carrier upon arrival.

In the consultation room, your normally gentle cat might hiss, swipe, or show other signs of distress during the examination. To make matters more difficult, the vet may send you home with medication, asking you to give tablets to your already upset and angry cat.

That is why we signed up to the Cat Friendly Clinic programme, designed to help address these issues, reducing the stress for cats and making veterinary visits easier for owners as well. We take great care to ensure that our feline friends feel as comfortable as possible in all our practices and are very proud to have recently achieved ‘silver’ status for our Lytham Road branch.

All our staff are trained to handle cats with care and patience. We will give your cat time to adjust to the practice surroundings and approach handling in a gentle and reassuring manner.

WHAT IS A CAT FRIENDLY CLINIC?

A cat friendly clinic is a vet practice that has met certain standards set by the International Society of Feline Medicine (ISFM) to ensure that each cat has a better experience at the vet. An assessment is made of the clinic, and it is visited for checks every three years to ensure that standards are being maintained.

There are three tiers for cat-friendly status; bronze, silver and gold, with specific requirements at each level. These include; how the practice is laid out, what facilities are available, what equipment is available, and the level of knowledge of the veterinary staff.

Being a Cat Friendly Clinic gives you peace of mind and reassurance, showing that:

We’ve achieved certain minimum accreditation standards as laid out by the ISFM.
We’ve thought about the specific needs of cats and minimised the impacts of unfamiliar sights, sounds and smells in our practice.
We’re trained in the gentle and sensitive handling of cats to show respect and care and to minimise stress.
We’re always available to talk with you about any concerns and answer any questions you may have, offer cat care advice for your visit as well as tailor-made recommendations on, for example, giving your cat any medications at home.

WHAT IS REQUIRED FOR SILVER STATUS?

We have recently achieved silver status due to the extra measures we have put in place for our feline patients. All the requirements for bronze status have been met, including:

All veterinary staff need to have up-to-date knowledge about caring for cats.
A named Cat Advocate at the practice who ensures that the standards are being maintained.
Handling all cats in a low-stress way.
A cat-only waiting area, or consulting times separate from dogs should be available.

Additional requirements for silver status include:

A cat-only waiting area, including measures to prevent cats from seeing or hearing dogs.
A dedicated cat hospitalisation ward must be available and there are specific requirements for the sizes of kennels and facilities provided.
More equipment for performing surgery and diagnostics is required.
How can you improve your cat’s experience of going to the vet?
Using our cat-friendly clinic can improve your cat’s experience of vet appointments considerably, but improvements can be made at home before the visit.

BRINGING YOUR CAT TO THE VETS – HELPFUL TIPS FOR A HAPPIER CAT

It’s best to prepare for your trip to the vets a few days before your appointment. Making your cat’s vet visit a less stressful experience is possible with a few thoughtful steps:

Choose a robust and comfortable carrier: Opt for a sturdy carrier with ample space for your cat to sit comfortably. Carriers with removable tops are ideal, as they allow shy or anxious cats to be examined in the base without having to leave it.
Familiarise the carrier: Keep the carrier out in your home as part of your cat’s regular environment. Encourage your cat to sleep or rest in it, making it feel like a familiar space.
Add comforting scents: Place your cat’s favourite blanket or bedding inside the carrier. The familiar scent will provide comfort. Set the carrier out a few days before the visit, so your cat can sniff and get used to it.
Use a pheromone spray: Apply Feliway spray, a pheromone that helps increase your cat’s sense of security, inside the carrier and your car. Spray it at least 30 minutes before the journey to give it time to take effect.
Add an absorbent lining: Place an absorbent pad or lining under the blanket in the carrier in case your cat has an accident on the way to the vet.
Gentle wrapping: If your cat becomes stressed at the sight of the carrier, gently wrap them in a blanket or towel before placing them inside. This can help reduce their anxiety.
Cover the carrier: Drape a blanket or sheet over the carrier to block your cat’s view of other animals and minimise stress from visual stimuli.
Waiting area for cats: Once you arrive at the practice, ask about the best area to wait with your cat. Our Lytham Road branch has a separate waiting area with shelves for cat carriers to help them feel more secure.
Stay calm: Throughout the appointment, try to remain calm and speak in a soft, soothing tone. Your calm demeanour can help keep your cat more relaxed.
Keep them in the carrier: Never be tempted to get your cat out of their carrier until they are safely in the consult room and the vet/nurse has advised you to do so. You’d be surprised how quickly cats can escape when in an usual environment!

If your cat is particularly nervous about visiting the vets, please do contact us for more advice and we’d be delighted to offer some tailored advice for you and your feline friend!

HOW TO SPOT IF YOUR PET IS IN PAIN

Animals experience pain in much the same way as humans do, although some people argue that pain may be more distressing for animals as they “live in the moment” and don’t know that the pain can be treated and will eventually go away.

Many animals are notoriously good at concealing their pain – a behaviour rooted in survival instincts from their wild ancestors. In the wild, showing pain can be seen as a weakness, making an animal more vulnerable to predators. This instinct persists in domesticated animals, meaning they may not always display obvious signs when they are suffering. Recognising early signs of pain in your pet is important so that you can address the causes and get the appropriate treatment for them.

SIGNS YOUR PET IS IN PAIN

There are several signs to look for that may show that your pet is in pain. A good assumption to work on is ‘if it hurts me, it will hurt my pet’ So, if your pet has injured themselves, always assume that it will be painful. Behaviour is the most important way to look for signs of pain and as a member of the family, you’ll know your pet’s normal behaviour the best. Common changes that may be signs of pain include:

Behavioural changes: Sudden shifts in temperament, such as becoming unusually quiet or more aggressive, may indicate pain.
Mobility issues: Limping, stiffness, or reluctance to move, especially after resting or in the morning, can be signs of physical pain.
Difficulty jumping or climbing: Pets that usually jump on furniture or climb stairs but become hesitant to do so may be experiencing discomfort.
Sensitivity to touch: Flinching, avoiding being touched, or showing sensitivity in certain areas suggests potential pain.
Social withdrawal: Reduced interest in play, going outside, or social interactions can be a sign of underlying pain or discomfort.
Lethargy or Hiding: If your pet is more withdrawn, hiding, or sleeping excessively, they may be in pain.
Changes in toileting habits: Cats having accidents outside the litter box or dogs having accidents indoors can indicate distress, possibly due to pain.
Appetite changes: A reduced appetite or abnormal chewing patterns may suggest pain in the mouth or elsewhere in the body.
Increased vocalisation: More frequent meowing, hissing, barking, or whining than usual could be a sign your pet is trying to communicate their discomfort.
Posture changes: A hunched back, lowered head, narrowed eyes, flattened ears, or body tension are physical indicators of pain.

By observing these signs, you can gauge whether your pet may be experiencing pain and seek veterinary attention if necessary. It’s essential to rely on your knowledge of your pet’s normal behaviour for early detection.

HOW CAN I HELP MY PET IN PAIN?

If you spot any of the signs that your pet may be in pain, contact us as soon as possible and get your pet checked by a vet. Many causes of pain can be helped with the appropriate treatment, and this is easier in the early stages of a condition or disease. There are several effective options to consider for improving their quality of life:

Pain medications: There are a wide variety of pain medications available for different conditions and in different forms (liquids, tablet or injection) and the exact type will depend on the underlying problem. These medications can have a remarkable improvement on your pet’s behaviour and quality of life. Unless you have been advised by a vet to do so, it is not safe to use human pain medication on pets, as many will have potentially life-threatening side effects if used inappropriately, and some, e.g. ibuprofen can be fatal.
Expert mobility advice: Book a mobility appointment at our Lytham Road branch with RVN Emma Speers, who is fully trained in canine exercise and rehabilitation. Emma can make a programme of exercise to increase strength and mobility, as well as discussing changes that can be made around the home to make life easier.
Pain assessment tools: Your vet will be able to advise tools you can use at home to assess and monitor your pet’s pain. This can be very helpful particularly with chronic (long term) conditions, where you can see the effects of various treatments on your pet’s pain level and quality of life.

UNTREATED PAIN IN PETS

Untreated pain can have serious consequences for pets, not only making them uncomfortable but also worsening their health over time. Prolonged pain can lead to issues such as weight loss, a decrease in appetite, more frequent infections, a poorly maintained coat, and noticeable changes in behaviour. Since pets rely on us to ensure their well-being, it’s important not to let them suffer in silence. If you notice any signs of discomfort or pain, it’s always better to consult your vet for advice and appropriate treatment. Avoiding or delaying action can harm your pet’s health, and we all know how unbearable pain can be—don’t let your pet endure it.

THERE’S A STRAY CAT IN MY NEIGHBOUHOOD: WHAT DO I DO?

In the UK, where many cats are free to roam outdoors, it can be difficult to determine if a cat in your neighbourhood needs help or is simply a well-cared-for pet exploring the area. To decide whether to step in, it’s important to assess if the cat is truly unowned and in need, or if it belongs to a nearby household.

Here’s a helpful guide to gather information before making assumptions about a cat’s situation:

How often have you seen the cat?

If this is your first encounter with the cat, it may belong to someone who has recently moved nearby. While it’s tempting to welcome the cat into your garden, avoid encouraging this, especially if you have cats of your own, as they are territorial. However, if the cat frequently returns or stays overnight, it’s worth investigating further.

Is the cat trying to enter your home?

If the cat seems confident and is trying to get inside, it may indicate that it’s someone’s pet, perhaps lost or abandoned.

Does the cat appear hungry?

Hunger isn’t always a reliable indicator that a cat needs help. Cats are opportunistic feeders, and even well-fed cats will seek food elsewhere. Offering food may cause confusion if the cat has an owner, and some cats may require special diets for medical reasons, so feeding them could unintentionally harm their health. Also, food left outside may attract cats to your garden, whether intended for them or not.

Does the cat wear a collar with owner details?

If you can safely approach the cat, check for a collar or identity tag. If the cat seems distressed or scared by your approach, it’s best to stop to avoid getting scratched or bitten.

Does the cat have a clipped ear?

A missing tip from a cat’s left ear suggests it has been neutered through a Trap, Neuter, Return (TNR) program, which manages feral cat populations. These cats usually live independently but are monitored by someone who provides food. If the cat has wandered into your garden, local cat organisations can help, offering humane traps or advice on returning the cat to its home area.

Is the cat afraid of you?

If the cat seems fearful, it may not have been socialized with humans and could be a stray or feral cat. However, some pet cats are naturally nervous around strangers. If you can’t find an owner, the cat may need neutering to prevent unwanted kittens. Male cats that aren’t neutered often have broad cheeks and visible testicles. Local cat organisations can assist with neutering and advise whether the cat should remain in its current location if healthy and happy.

Does the cat seem sick or injured?

If the cat appears unwell, with signs like limping, being very thin, or having visible injuries, it might need veterinary care. Don’t assume a thin cat is young—it could be an older cat from a nearby home that has wandered off and become lost. If you’re unsure, contact a local animal organisation for guidance.

What to do if you find a nest of kittens

If you discover kittens, observe from a distance for about three hours to see if the mother returns. If not, or if the kittens are crying and seem dirty, contact a local homing centre immediately for assistance. If the mother does return, leave food for her and aim to trap her and the kittens later for neutering. Always try to locate an owner before intervening.

For more tips on helping unowned cats, visit iCatCare.

KEEP PETS HAPPY IN CHILLY WEATHER

As the winter months draw near and temperatures begin to drop, it’s important to plan ahead and give our pets a little extra care to keep them safe and comfortable. Here are some of our top tips for ensuring your pets stay happy and healthy during the colder weather.

CATS

Always ensure your cat has access to a warm indoor space. If your cat uses a cat flap, regularly check that it hasn’t frozen shut or been blocked by snow. In extreme cold, it’s best to keep your cat indoors if possible, and if you don’t usually, be sure to provide a litter tray.

Indoor cats should have a cosy bed placed away from cold drafts, especially elderly cats or kittens who may struggle to stay warm.

Cats are also known to crawl under car bonnets seeking warmth from engines, so make it a habit to check under your car and knock on the bonnet before starting it.

Remember, antifreeze is highly toxic to pets and can be fatal if ingested, so contact your vet immediately if you think your pet has been exposed to it – don’t wait for symptoms to show.

DOGS

Dogs with thick, fluffy coats typically handle the cold well during walks, but short-haired breeds, puppies, and senior dogs may benefit from wearing a coat or sweater (or both!).

Be cautious on icy surfaces, as they can be just as dangerous for dogs as they are for humans. For older dogs, even small slips on ice can worsen arthritis and cause significant pain.

Watch out for salt and grit on roads, as these can irritate your dog’s sensitive paws. Be sure to wash and dry their feet after walks, and if it’s snowy, check between their toes for compacted ice, which can be softened and removed with lukewarm water. This is more common in dogs with furry paws, so keep the fur around their feet trimmed.

Also, keep curious dogs away from frozen ponds or lakes to prevent accidents on thin ice – it’s just as risky for them as it is for us.

RABBITS AND GUINEA PIGS

Don’t forget about small outdoor pets like rabbits and guinea pigs, who are also vulnerable to cold weather. If possible, bring them inside to a sheltered area like a shed or garage. If that’s not an option, add extra insulation to their hutch using heavy blankets or bubble wrap, but ensure there’s still adequate ventilation.

Provide plenty of additional bedding, such as straw, to keep them warm when temperatures drop. You can also use pet-safe heat discs that can be microwaved to provide warmth. Protect their enclosure from the harsh elements with covers or shields.

BIRDS

For birds kept in outdoor aviaries or coops, ensure they have plenty of warm, dry bedding and cover their enclosures to shield them from wind and snow. Birds often eat more in cold weather to maintain body heat, so always provide ample food.

Regularly check their water to make sure it hasn’t frozen over.

If you have chickens, applying a layer of Vaseline to their combs and wattles can help prevent frostbite in freezing temperatures.